Q & A

Hey All, Having trouble finding Oramask 810 (or 810S) in the U.S. Apparently, Craft Cutter Supply no longer carries it. I can find it but only in 15 inch width which is too large for my Cameo 4. Are there any suitable alternatives for Oramask 810/810S? UPDATE: Found a U.S. reseller - H&H Sign Company.

I've been using some to be clear transfer medium (not oracal) that came with some masking vinyl that I bought on amazon but it's actually fairly grainy and glossy, as such difficult to see though to line up the mask any recommendations on transfer medium that works well? thanks

This problem is driving me insane. I've made my masks, cut with a Siser Juliet, with the blade as shallow as I can possibly make it while still making the cut through the vinyl. Now for the life of me I can't get the cut stencil to cleanly come off of the backing with the transfer tape. Here I have weeded out the background, and the pattern is sitting on the backing. The background material I pulled off separated just fine, after I carefully separated a corner with a knife blade. I have already laid down my white paint, and want to apply this marking as a mask, so that when I'm done painting the aircraft I just remove the tape revealing the pat…

Hello, Beginning a journey to painting my rc body and have been doing some research on cutting my own vinyl masks. I have found a local supplier for 810s which seems to be more flexible than 810, to adhere to the inside of lexan rc bodies. Thinking of purchasing a Silhouette Portrait 4. The 810s is 3mm thick but the Silhouette Portrait 4 says it can only cut 2mm. Will this be ok?

Hi there, Novice builder but like the idea of creating my own masks and I've just picked up a Silhouette Portrait 4 and learning how to use it From what I've read the oracal 810 or tamiya masking sheets seem to work best, I'm picking up the tamiya sheets but finding an economical source of 810 around Calgary or in Canada is tough. Amazon has 631 which is flexible but not transparent, and 813 which is transparent but more rigid seems the 810 is the goldie locks but I can't seem to find an economical source - best I can find is $35/10yd + $20 shipping ps - think the site is great, strange it's not more popular but I guess this…

Hello all, I am creating this post as I may need some guidance and help with a slight issue I am facing. I recently purchased at Cameo 5 to create paint masks for my builds using OraMask810, I have been doing quite a few test cuts to fine-tune the settings and I arrived at; Depth: 1 Force: 5 Speed: 1 Acceleration: 1 Passes: 1 No OVERCUT My issue is no matter how much I try to fine-tune the settings and get it dialled in I always seem to encounter my cuts not being totally accurate, such as my RAF 1/48 Roundals having a clear “step” showing the blade entry/exit point, and the smaller circles not being perfectly round. Also, my Luftwaffe Balkenkreuze even th…

Anyone come across a source for sheets of the material like Tamiya tape? Other than buying the small sheets from Tamiya and others? Eduard and others are selling masks made from the same or similar stuff.

Some of you will be aware of my 3D-printed BOMARC build happening on LSP. I'm at the point where I need to create some paint masks for its various markings, but have hit a bit of a wall with regard to creating the required US Air Force text. Creating the text itself was easy enough: just download the required Amarillo font and get the sizing close enough. The problem started when I tried to create the thin border that needs to go around most of the text. I used Silhouette Studio's 'offset' function to create the narrow border to produce what you see in the image below: The problem is that only the offset border gets cut! The internal lines are ign…

Good morning gents, John from Greece, (a.k.a zaxos345 as an LSP member) I found a real deal on a used cameo portrait 3 machine, here in Greece and i want your opinion...is it enough power for custom masks on vinyl??? You see its dimentions are perfect for my available room in my cave!!! Thanks, John

Hello to you all i have problems with the settings to cut this mask. Already have tried difrent setting but it whont work for me. The mask is comming off the paper when i cut other atemt it whas not deep enough Any sugestion i work with the cameo 4 Thanks MDB

Hey there, I have a Cameo 4. I've made some masks to, what I believe to be, the correct size for the lower wing balkenkreuz on a Fw190. The process I'm using is green goes down first, spray white, then put the blue mask over the top of that. I am having difficulty getting the outer border. To scale, the slits end up being 0.593mm wide. I have made them in the fashion one of the manufacturers sell them. The questions I am left with are: a) Is 0.593mm too much of an ask for the machine, or even my own placement ability? b) Is there a better process? For instance- black first, then white? c) Should I restrict the white t…

Has anyone used their Cameo to cut 0.032" styrene plastic sheet? I've seen where some folks have cut 0.010" sheet. I'll probably try using a manual blade set to depth 4.

Hi all, I am looking for some-one (located in Europe) who can make a simple mask for me. I am making a diorama of a Blacksmith shop and need to airbrush "Blacksmith and name" onto the building. anyone who is interested and we can discuss thew simple lay out and costs. Thanks for looking, Rob from Holland

Hi guys, The topic title says it all really. The reason I'm asking is the suitability for instrument glass. A guy called Gazzas is building the new Kotare 1/32nd scale Spitfire on LSP and has just completed his instrument panel. He's used clear resin and it looks good but the resin has set in a domed fashion, like a drop of water. My thoughts are whether it would be possible to pre-cut a range of circles out of clear masking material to use as the instrument glazing. What are the opinions of those in the know please? Cheers, Guy

So as the title says, basically... I have successfully traced a few old and yellowed decal sheets and made pretty decent masks out of them, but that was scanning and auto-tracing (or manual for the tricky bits). But I always have something to trace. Of course you can't really stick your canopy in the scanner and do it that way. (I guess you could do it once but it wouldn't be that useful...) Sooo then how do you guys (and the masking companies) do it?

Hi All! I've ordered some Oramask 810 and looking forward to playing with it with my Silhouette cutter. I'm curious about using transfer tape to move complex designs (Enterprise Aztec masks, anyone?) from backing paper onto a model. My understanding is that the 810 is pretty low-tack, and the only transfer tape I've used up til now has been pretty strong. I've no idea how that combo would work well together. Is there a better choice than the transfer tape I've been using with Oracal 651? Thanks in advance! Chris

I've tried Amazon and Craft Cutter Supply. Perhaps I'm not using the correct search terms but I thought "Kabuki tape" would at least bring up some results but nope, nothing more than Tamiya tape and the like. I have Oramask 810 but for some projects, I just want the Kabuki masks. I think they perform a bit better.

Hello to you all im tryng to make my own masks from decals. I have a sheet in 1/48 but i whant to enlarge it to 1/32 Do i just scan the origenal sheet enlarge 150 and go? But i have problems to get the outlining good I use the free software. Or is it beter to upgrade the software? Any sugestions are welcome Mark

Hi there Does anybody have an inkling of the type of font used for German WW2 aircraft as far as aircraft codes go? I was wondering if there is a specific (or close enough) font in the Silhouette Designer edition that can be used?

For instance, I have scanned the gear bay of the Eduard Mustang. I am in the process of making a mask set so I don't have to go through the process of a lot of masking this go around. How do I keep my base image from moving when I am drawing my cut lines?

Mainly because I haven't opened it yet. I just added the title for those of us who remember the old commercial about the lady washing her hair and couldn't do a thing with it.... I guess you gotta be a boomer to remember that commercial. Anyway, the box is sitting on a chair next to me and I'm almost ready to crack it open and have a look at what's in the box. From reading, I guess it's best to invest in the design software from Silouette rather than just the stock software as it gives you better/more options?

I'm debating whether I want to put a clearcoat on before removing masks. Any comments?

Hello to all Can anyone please explain me when select overcut the portrait don't cut the vinyl when I unselected the overcut with the same settings it's OK cut anyone have similar problems with overcut enabled?

So I prepared my designs for the first cut, set up the Portrait 3, and followed all the loading steps. However, the machine just will not cut. It feeds the mat in and it's clearly tracing the design, but no cuts result. I've tried increasing blade depth with no result. I'm using Artool Ultramask (not dissimilar to Oracal 810) on the supplied cutting mat. I've selected "Vinyl, Silhouette Oracal 651", and apart from adjusting the blade depth in increments up to 5 with no result, have left all the other defaults as is. Has anyone got any ideas how I can actually achieve a cut please? TIA

Hello to you all maybe a few dumb qustions Im working on my first mask set for a plane now i have to mask a lot in the same area for difrent colors so i dondt know how long i can leave them on And what is the best paper masks or foil Thanks Mark