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My recently completed 1/48 Hasegawa Typhone Mk Ib with Montex Masks. Only decal was the pilots kill board. First time using masks successfully. The issue I see for me it transferring and getting the right things to stick. Did a little test before with Stars/Bars and that was entertaining. Maybe I'll just stick to Japanese aircraft! 🤣

Thanks Kevin. I'll keep that in mind. I don't want to cause any problems with the forum but I would like to contribute if I can.

For personal use, you can pretty much do whatever you want. But I'd say if you've scanned a commercial decal sheet and turned it into a cutting file for masks, then it's probably best not to upload it here. If you've used it as the basis for a custom design, or used just a specific element on the sheet (like the shark mouth that you mentioned), then you can probably get away with it. Kev

Thank you. Seeing you guys paint on the great markings pushed me over the edge and want one. Builds like the above Mustang just look so much better than decals. I have used store bought a couple of times but it can be hard to fund just what you need. It will be nice to be able to just cut a new mask when one gets messed up too. I hope I can eventually contribute to the library on here.

Here are a few recent completions using my Cameo4. Eduard's rebox of Hasegwa 1/72 B-26. All marking done on Cameo except for nose art. Eduard's 1/48th P-51D as June Nite.

View File WW2 British/Commonwealth Squadron Signs 1/35 These are 1/35 squadron signs used on British and Commonwealth armor in WW2. Submitter jguld Submitted 10/16/2020 Category Vehicles - AFVs & Military  

nice i just orderd mine with a nice discount now waiting for the mailman Mark

Hey everyone, I'm new to this whole mask thing, looking forward to learning lots from other folk's creations. Thanks for letting me join! Lee

I've been doing the serial numbers for my Lightning this morning so here's the way that I went about it, but firstly a reminder of the main tools: I scanned the decal sheet that came with the kit and put the image into my photographs folder. then dragged the image into the Silhouette drawing area, scaling the image to a convenient size and clicking "send to back" (top tool bar) so that I could draw over it. I'm doing XS901, so I could trace the X and S and the 9. I started with the 9. The centre looked circular to me so I selected the line

I think I found a font that will work. Something called GL Antique Plus looks very close to many of the decal sheets I have viewed online.

Thanks, I have never posted over there so I am in the waiting for validation phase. I will ask when I get in.

Does anyone know what font is used on Japanese tail codes for naval aircraft in the 41-43 time period? I am working on an old Fujimi kit in 1/72 and the decal sheet is missing. Wanted to use the Silhouette to cut out some masks and figure a font, if I can find one, would produce better tail codes than if I trace a decal sheet. Thanks in advance, James

The standard blade supplied with the machine is adequate for the vast majority of jobs. I bought the heavier duty blade for cutting thicker plastic but I haven't really tried it out properly yet.

Finally got a new toy! I'd been using my previous workplace's Cameo 3, so I'm excited to learn what more capabilities the 4 has! First job: markings for a 1/48 Percival Provost! Denzil

Thanks Max. Stuff like this will sure be a huge help to get a good start when I get mine. I can hardly wait.

Good to see you here Albert, you won't regret going down the Cameo route, it's the best modelling decision I ever made, and for more reasons other than just markings.

It's beautiful work like this that convinced me I need a Cameo machine. That Mustang is gorgeous.

Hi all Thanks for letting me be part of this group. My name is Philippe (Flip) Hendrickx and i'm an avid modeller from Belgium. My main interest is airplanes (all scales) but having said that, i'm interested in all aspects of our hobby. I recently bought a 2nd hand Silhouette Cameo 3 cutter so i'm rather new this, so I hope to learn a lot here and to be able to contribute as well as soon as possible. Best regards Philippe

View File F102 Canopy Revell 144.svg Canopy, wheel, and intake splitter masks for the Revell 1:144 F-102A. This is the mold as used by Arii, Otaki, and Entex. The canopy matches the kit part fairly well, but the frames look oversized for the scale to my eye. These were downscaled from 1:72 and adjusted to fit this kit. Submitter MichaelS Submitted 10/18/2020 Category Canopy Masks  

Welcome aboard, Jim! Hopefully you will find the site useful. Kev

Thanks for the add. Newbie here, picked up a Silhouette Cameo a couple months back and have been trying it out. Upgraded to the designer edition and downloaded Inkscape to work in. Found this group through Scale Modelers Critique Group. Still learning the programs and trying to find the best way to trace decal sheets. So far it seems better to work in Inkscape and use the bezier tool to trace. Using the trace tool in Silhouette wasn't working great for me, so I'm open to suggestions. 1/35 armor guy Jim Guld

It looks like coastairbrush.com carries Ultra Mask. I've only purchased one time from them, airbrush part, but had no problems. Dave

Wow, that looks fantastic! Kev

What fun, and a great idea for getting in some practice Denzil! Max

Looks like the pilot slammed on the brakes a little too hard! Great work, Denzil. Kev

Good to see you here Mark! I agree with Kev, the Silhouette seems to be the market leader, so you are more likely to find advice and tips/tutorials for it than perhaps machines such as the Cricut.

Welcome aboard, Mark! The most popular cutter for scale modellers is probably the Silhouette Portrait, for its affordable price and compact size. Or at least, that's why I chose it! There are others out there, of course but I'm personally not familiar with those. Perhaps some of our other members can advise about those. Kev

Awesome! I was just thinking about starting one of my Revell Tornados. I think this will help me make that decision sooner. Thanks!

Hey Kevin, you can resize any image once opened in Silhouette. No matter what size the image is jpeg or otherwise. First select the image, drag a rectangle around it or go up to edit and scroll down to 'select all'. Once selected the rectangel will show you the actual size of the image. A toolbar will open above (see screenshot below) you can insert the exact dimensions you want and hit enter and the image will resize to those dimesions right down to ten thousands of an inch. To the right of the red arrows is a padlock symbol. Just click on it to lock or unlock. When

You may recall that in my intro I said that I was working on a Tamiya Mk VIII, and a friend was cutting the masks for me. Well here's the result: an aircraft of 54 Sqn RAF (despite the markings and serial), 1945. The basic kit was enhanced with various Barracuda bits, including wheels, rocker covers with "RR" logo, and some cockpit parts, and I also used a Yahu instrument panel. The masks (made from Oramask I believe) worked very well, even the rather small serial. Thanks JD. I've never liked large decals, and I'm now rather hooked on masks, despite rather enjoying t

Howdy folks, Just a quick FYI to let you know that I've just upgraded the site to the latest version of the software. As you can probably tell, it has a slightly different look, but everything should work the same as before. Enjoy! Kev

Created masks for the airbase and commander codes ("SP" and "52FW") to replace the included decals. Everything else is decal. Things that worked well: scanning the original decals and using them to align replacement text in Inkscape. Also scanned the painting/decal guide from the kit, scaled it to fit, and cut the mask to align with edges of the stab and panels. Love that the color matches the body color perfectly, unlike the original decal, for example the "AF91-352" bit. Things I need to work on. I must have laid the paint on too thick, as I ended up with

I've done the nose of my Lightning this afternoon so recorded the masking sequence that I followed. This isn't the only way of doing it, there are shortcuts when transferring the mask to the transfer piece for instance but this is how I did this particular one today: Firstly I prepared an "empty" mask, a negative one if you like just to get its position right and to spray the background white areas ready for the roundel and the chequerboard: Then I took my transfer piece and placed it over the mask, carefully lifting it from its backing sheet

The Designer edition is necessary to import images Kev. Drawing from scratch is the only way with the basic software but the small fee for the Designer software opens up so many avenues which increases the usefulness of the cutter tenfold.

Ok... this may be considered to be a shameless plug of my YouTube channel; but it is actually a tutorial 😄 Hope you find it useful 😉

Yep! 100% Agreed Max! I got the DE software only to be able to import Vectors, but the nesting feature and other bits proved to be useful as well. So far the DE does everything I need, and have not lacked for anything yet. One of THE most useful features in the Silhouette software (which IIRC is available in the base form) IMHO is the "Edit Points" feature. It allows you to pull/straighten/curve or in general tweak and image to your liking after it has been put through the outlining procedure to be able to cut.

A small addition to the earlier "tutorial", this time cutting plastic instead of vinyl. For my Lightning I needed to make two ventral fins from 30 thou plastic card. Accurate scale drawings were part of Echelon's instructions, so I scanned these: ....saved the scan to my photo album then dragged the image onto the Silhouette screen: the drawing again being scaled to a workable size. Then the fin was traced, the only slightly tricky bit (not really!) was the curve. When you click on the drawing tool icon, one of the options given is to draw

So these are the masks that I drew for the Lightning, all in 1/32 scale. Firstly it's worth saying that I draw everything with the page really enlarged so that the positions, points and edges of my lines are as precise as possible. You can reduce the page size to check every now and again. My starting point was the sheet of markings provided with the kit, I measured the diameters of each part of the largest roundels then selected the circle tool from the left hand selection box - it doesn't actually draw circles per se though. The latest update to the software includes a centring cross to e

View File Ki-45 Kill Marks_V2.studio3 Ki-45 Kill Marks_V2.studio3 Submitter Out2gtcha Submitted 07/23/2020 Category Japan - All Eras  

View File Ki-45 - 53rd Sentai_outlined_final.studio3 Ki-45 - 53rd Sentai_outlined_final.studio3 Submitter Out2gtcha Submitted 07/23/2020 Category Japan - All Eras  

Rudder_vertical fin cross_WWI_D.VII.studio3 View File Rudder_vertical fin cross_WWI_D.VII.studio3 Submitter Out2gtcha Submitted 07/20/2020 Category WW1 - All Nations