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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/22/2024 in all areas

  1. Just as a quick update on this model, it's now left my collection, and has a new home in the Bentwaters Cold War Museum. This is a small but excellent museum, run by what is clearly an enthusiastic and committed bunch of volunteers, who include a number of modellers who are also part of the local IPMS branch. Thoroughly recommended if you're ever in that part of England.
    3 points
  2. I've been working on a Revell Razor Crest. When I used the decals in the cockpit, they seemed a bit thick and I eventually had to pull out a very old bottle of Solvaset and use a 1/4" flat brush to push them down into the details. Therefore, I was concerned about using the kit decals for the yellow stripes on the outside. So I decided to make masks for painting the yellow stripes. I'm sure it'll be challenging to get them in place correctly. This is a screen capture from the Silhouette Studio software. I think it's the largest single piece of masking material that I've used. I'll weed out what I don't need but it'll be a couple days 'til I try them. It's raining so I can't paint and I don't want to have them sitting around stuck to the model for a while. It should be interesting.
    2 points
  3. Dora Wings Vega Gull G-AFBW 48 scale.studio3 View File One of the options in the excellent Dora Wings Vega Gull. The decals in the kit look quite good but I thought the white might be a little transparent so I ran up this mask. Enjoy John Submitter Mostly 48th Submitted 03/25/2024 Category Aircraft - Civil  
    2 points
  4. Masked up the remaining pieces and painted.
    2 points
  5. Thanks Kev. When I weeded out all the unnecessary bits, I realized there's a mistake there. This is the final after a recut. First mask piece in place. Paint on. Masks off. I like it. Just 4 more mask pieces to go.
    2 points
  6. Oh yeah, finished model.
    1 point
  7. Revell Razer Crest Yellow Stripes Mask (studio3) View File I found the decals hard to work with while working on the cockpit, so I created a set of masks for the yellow stripes. Note, I sort of 'cheated' and created them so I wouldn't have to deal with transfer tape. You can add smaller scrape areas by making additions to the masks or perhaps some paint on masking. Dave Submitter denders Submitted 03/30/2024 Category Sci-Fi & Real Space  
    1 point
  8. Kev, they're uploaded. There's a extra topic to remove because I forgot how to upload files. Dave
    1 point
  9. Hi Kev, yes, I will.
    1 point
  10. Hi, folks! I´m sure that those cricut-machines etc. are the most comfortable way to do some masking. But in my case, i had already purchased a laser-module for my 3D-Printer because of other applications. So i wanted to figure out, if it is also useful for making some 1/48 masks. So if someone else here is interested in laser cutting: i can recommend the following settings for a 5W-Diode-Laser in combination with Lightburn and Tamiya masking paper: 150mm/min and 5% Power. If some of you guys already did some laser cutting, i would be happy to hear about your experience with different materials/parameters. Currently i am building the Tamiya P-38 (what a gem of a kit!). I think in 48-scale it looks better to use the provided decals for everything besides the larger insignia. I have tried to make a mask for the "Miss Virginia"-Lettering, but i think it´s just too small to handle and align the letters. Nevertheless interesting to see how accurate this setting performs.
    1 point
  11. Yes to what snigel said! There are good tutorials here on this site. A quick demo: I'm also interested in your laser cutter set up. Can you cut balsa with it? Gene K
    1 point
  12. Hi all, I just turned 40 and did myself a gift, say a Silhouette Portrait 3. Here to learn how to do, take profit of your great contributions, and improving my skills in order to contribute myself. Have a nice day all!
    1 point
  13. Use transfertape to get the alignment of the letters correct, or the serialnumbers on the fins. What 3D-printing machine are you using?
    1 point
  14. Here are the settings I use when cutting Oramask 810. NOTE: Since this picture was made I've increased the speed to 6. Perhaps it could be set at a higher speed but that's your decision. OVERCUT simply extends the corner cuts beyond the apex and guarantees the corners are sharp and the mask pieces separate completely.
    1 point
  15. Version 1.0.0

    26 downloads

    hope this is useful instead of stencil made from oromask might be better on card stock so that you can soften the edges
    1 point
  16. I have Frisket film, and I have Cricut Transfer tape which is clear... The Frisket film is much tackier than the Cricut Transfer tape. Given a choice, I grab the Cricut.
    1 point
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