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Thumbs up here for Oramask 810, fits the bill perfectly but I’d highly recommend Cricut transfer sheets for aligning the masks accurately. The “Tamiya” tape sheets are very expensive in comparison to Oramask and I find less forgiving to cut, but that could just be me. When using Oramask for canopies’ compound curves it’s wise the make some strategically placed side cuts to help the mask to conform more easily, like these Typhoon ones: Max

Seconded on the Cricut transfer tape. Re the Tamiya sheets: I must confess I saw the pack I've got on sale, and bought said pack out of curiosity to try it. It's OK, as I said above, but perhaps is more expensive than other materials: I've not done the maths, I confess.

Thank you all for the advice, it's great !!!!!

I'll echo all the good advice that's been mentioned by the more experienced folks Similar to Timbacat, I generally use oracal 810 for most items like insignia, numbers, etc and tamiya sheets for canopies there's a fair bit of technique to learn, this site is a great resource for getting started...and it's a wonderful thing when you peel that mask off leaving a great looking insignia

Hi Rudy, It really depends on what you want to do. For sharp-edged markings like insignia, I use Oramask, since the model surfaces in those areas usually have only slight curvature. For canopies, I generally use Tamiya masking sheets, as canopies can have complex, pronounced shapes. For camouflage patterns—because of the soft color transitions (think "floating masks")—I use Mylar stencil film, artist's cardstock, or a pencil to sketch out the patterns beforehand. As you can see, there are various ways to create masks. But your plotter can cut all these materials—it just depends on what you personally prefer. Have fun with your modeling! You can't go wrong! 😎 Harry

I use Artool Ultra Mask, which is similar to Oramask, but some say a little less tacky. It is available on a roll or in packs of A4 sheets. I've also tried the Tamiya sheets. Plus points: The Tamiya sheets work, and have a printed grid to aid alignment. The downside is that it is not particularly transparent, which in some circumstances can make placing and alignment more difficult.

Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire XVI codes + serials for silver camouflage Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire XVI codes + serials for silver camouflage File Information Submitter Fenous Submitted 08/11/2026 Category Aircraft - Military View File

1:32 - Fw 190D-9 Canopy - Early and Late Versionen Hello Here are two versions of the canopy - Early and Late Versionen - for the Fw 190D-9 in 1/32 scale. Have fun building! Harry File Information Submitter Timbacat Submitted 07/04/2025 Category Canopy Masks View File

Hi all fellow builders and greetings from Sweden. Im quite active on LSP for many years, fantastic forum indeed it is and i really enjoying being there, see all fantastic projects in progress. Im used to use vinyl masks, but the down side i have to rely on AM or if lucky one can cut masks for me, so stuck in a way in options. So to lock up more options, its time for me to learn that too in modelling, so got me a own cutter, and i think after reading about it it is a good to start with, as i am truly a beginner, do know PC and OS, and troubleshoot hardware, and games, as im a period gamer,.builded many of them. But when it comes to software, well that is something else, yes can draw in MS paint all that and some other simple software. So joined here to get valuable tips and how to, and hopefully when good and confident will be able to share, sure will be a learning curve for me, and yes will try to share my fails aswell, as its from them we do learn from. Later will do my first ones for my ongoing project on LSP So keeping it simple, Hinomaru with s white border.

Thank you Kevin and Max. Just wondering , is it worthwhile to upgrade my basic Silhouette Studio software to the Design edition to get the autotrace capability? I uploaded a photo of a mask set for the Zoukei-Mura F-4E and loaded it into Silhouette but found that tracing over it with the shape tools or freehand to be very difficult. I watched a YouTube video on using these drawing tools and adjusting the points on the mask but was unable to duplicate the results. I'm not sure if the person had an upgraded version of Studio or not. I appreciate the warm welcome and the opportunity to ask questions. Brad

Indeed, welcome Brad. Canopy masks can be tricky, take patience and usually many test fits and adjustments, but very worthwhile. On compound curves make sure you cut some lines at right angles to the curve to help the mask to conform. Max

Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire XVI codes + serials for silver camouflage

Apart from the fact that I use a Portrait 3 rather than a 2, my answer is pretty much the same as Kevin's above. I'm quite happy with mine, and mainly use it for 1/32 and 1/48 models: I tend to stick to decals (in all senses lol) for 1/72, but never say never. I've managed to cut 1/32 Royal Navy serial numbers on my Portrait 3, and these scale out at 0.125inch. 8in. in 1/72 scales out at 0.11.. (recurring) inches, so effectively not that much difference: it may be possible. Why not try it, then adjust the cutter settings (depth and so on) and try again if it goes wrong? I've found that this is the best way to learn (as well as posting on here, not instead of, obvs).

Do you have a link, Harry? Nevermind, found them! Thanks for uploading those, Harry. Kev

Roundel of Italy (1940–1943).svg Italian national insignia from 1940 to 1943. The size can be scaled to adjust the dimensions. Enjoy using it! Harry File Information Submitter Timbacat Submitted 07/26/2026 Category Luftwaffe - WW2 View File

Lotus 49_Tamiya 1-12.svg Here is the file from member @MartinR (Lotus 49, 1967) in .svg format, for anyone unable to read the .studio3 format. Harry File Information Submitter Timbacat Submitted 07/26/2026 Category Vehicles - Civil View File

Lotus 49_Tyres.svg Here is the file from member @MartinR (Lotus 49, 1967) in .svg format, for anyone unable to read the .studio3 format. Harry File Information Submitter Timbacat Submitted 07/26/2026 Category Vehicles - Civil View File

Hi fellow modellers. I'm new in here but have been designing masks for about 4 years . I really eenjoy it, and get quite good results at reducing my decals usage ;-). Using a Cameo Silhouette 3 (thinking a bout a 5) and mostly oramask vinyl but also cricut vinyl which tends to be harder and as such allow finer details and smaller letters when it's needed.

Thank you very much for the good advice, I immediately ordered a roll of Oramask 810, via Amazon . I keep the Tamiya mask sheets in mind, i think on the first sight they are much the same as the mask sheets from Green Stuff, and working good for cutting mask's with a knife.

Hi Rudy, You'll find that most people use one of the Oramask vinyls, usually 810 if my memory serves me correctly. https://www.orafol.com/en/australia/products/oramask-810s-stencil-film The main issue with this material is that it's not always easy to get hold of in sensible quantities, or even at all sometimes. Another commonly-used option are the masking sheets from Tamiya, which are made from the same material as their tape. Each material has its own set of pros and cons, so its worth having and experimenting with both if you can. The vinyl cuts more cleanly, is translucent, and comes in larger sizes. The Tamiya material conforms better to compound curves and surface details, and is (in my experience) more readily available. The machines are designed to handle a wide range of material types, so dialling them in for a specific medium can be tricky. Kev

I'm late coming to this thread -- glad you found a solution after so much frustration. SO just for info: I have had nearly all models of the Silhouette cutters up to 4, and had great cuts ... until the 4. Problem with that machine was the same as yours. Sent the first one back, and the replacement had the same issue. In frustration I ordered an inexpensive Portrait 4 ... and was (and am) pleased as punch. All to say I wouldn't discount that your machine may have hardware tracking problems, including distortions depending on where on the page the cut is. As @Timbacat pointed out - lots of things churning inside the machine to make "simple" cuts as circles. Gene K

Hello, fellas ! Here's how I create masks with my Silhouette Cameo for my example of W.Nr for 1/32 German aircraft. Of course, it also works for letters. I noticed that the masks featuring numbers with an inner recess (0, 4, 6, 8 and 9) were torn. The cause was that the Cameo's blade passed too close (the numbers are really very small) to both the outer contour and to cut the recesses. To solve this problem, here's what I do: 1-I select the "text" function in the left-hand column and on the right I choose the font and also the size of the text so that it's as large as possible while still fitting entirely within the Studio window : 2-I duplicate my text and position it below : 3-Use the "eraser" tool to remove all inner recesses from the top text : 4-And on the bottom text, I do the opposite and remove all the text outlines, leaving only the recesses : 5-I select the set, group it together and then cut it to the right size for my model : 6-For my FW 190 the W.Nr will have a size of 10.18mm : 7-I cut out the assembly, place the main mask on my model, carefully detach the 3 recesses and place them gently and precisely in position, apply a light coat of black paint with the airbrush and you're done : That's all folks! For today that is. I hope this little tutorial has been of interest to you. See you soon for new adventures with the Cameo! Denis.

These were copied right from the actual Bandai mask sets available elsewhere. I just couldnt get them when I needed them, so just imported and sized them up on the Silhouette. Turned out quite well I think. The Bandai SW kits are all AMAZING imho: