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View File Vickers Wellington geodetic constructed floor This is a replacement part for the "Trumpeter" 1/48th scale Vickers Wellington Mk. III geodetic constructed floor. Part number G17, Kit number 02823. I'm not sure if it will be too visible through the windows, but at the very least it should allow more light into the interior of the aircraft fuselage. NOTE: The part is very fragile, with the frame cross-members only .3mm across. I plan on glueing on parts G2, G18, E5 and E13 BEFORE removing the 3D printed supports. Also, I think it might be best to cure the part first with the supports in place. The second image depicts my first attempt at printing the flooring (Version 1). The bulkheads were not correct, and as you can see, some grid sections broke while others warped as a result of removing the supports before curing and glueing of accessory parts. The first image is the kits original part... Submitter DBB Submitted 08/13/2024 Category Non-Mask Cutting Files Scale 1/48 Intended Kit Trumpeter Vickers Wellingtom Mk. 3 kit #02823  

View File XT278-809NAS.studio3 The Airfix 1/48 Buccaneer was always considered a difficult build, but all that changed with the later new tooling, which has been released in both RAF and RN versions. I've always liked the "Banana Jet", and found that suddenly I have one built, one on the bench and one in the queue. If I had one complaint about the S2C/D (the FAA boxing) it is that it has four schemes, all in overall Extra Dark Sea Grey. I'm awkward, so found myself a picture of an early scheme on an aircraft of 809 Naval Air Squadron embarked in HMS Hermes in 1966. Regrettably I can't post it here due to copyright, but can show a pic of the finished model which should give you most of the info you need. The extra "8" for the underwing serials is to make doing the folded wing option easier: if making the model in this configuration, the folding bits can be painted separately and added as the last thing in the build. You will need to source 809 NAS badges for the intake sides - there is a pair on the kit decal sheet - and the small serials, which I was unable to cut in 1/48 scale; I used a Xtradecal sheet of generic lettering. You will also need to remove the fairings between the fuselage and intakes - see second photo - as early S2s did not have these - and make other mods relevant to an early machine. Otherwise follow kit option B Comments welcome. Submitter MikeC Submitted 08/24/2024 Category Aircraft - Military

Hello I'm John Zaranek from Buffalo, NY and have been building scale models for over 30 years. I've owned a Cricut Explore Air 3 for several years now and have been unable to use it due to software incompatibility issues (first, couldn't use my Chromebook, then Cricut Design Space wouldn't allow Windows 11 on another laptop). I was considering selling it and replacing it with a Silhouette unit, but for giggles I checked today and found that Cricut now supports Windows 11.....anyway, I'm looking forward to trying out making my own masks. Thanks very much.

View File Lotus 49, 1967 Not many of these kits around now but here's a set of masks I did for Tamiya's 1/12 Lotus 49. Graham Hill's car at the Mexico GP October 1967 Submitter MartinR Submitted 09/08/2024 Category Vehicles - Civil  

I'm sure Mike will give you the best "tutorial", but for others who may have the same quandary (or who are looking for shortcuts): 1. Convert 1:1 measurements into your desired units, for example inches or mm. https://www.calculator.net/conversion-calculator.html 2. Divide by your desired scale, for example 72 or 48. 3. If you change your mind on the scale, you can start again, or https://www.scalemodelersworld.com/online-scale-converter-tool.html Gene K

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Thanks. Nice job on the masks ... and on the model!! Gene K

Hi Max Your help with the roundel colours was most appreciated and I have now purchased the Mr Paint colours. My foray into the Cricut world hasn't really taken off at all for various reasons. Lack of knowledge in how to use my drawing software combined with my dyscalculia are the major handicaps at the moment. I simply can't make sense of how to convert the 1:1 size into any given scale even though I know it must be a simple process. So just trying to draw simple RAF roundels is proving to be utterly bewildering and my enthusiasm has taken a tumble. The thought of drawing serial numbers and letters is even more off putting. Duncan B

Thanks for the resin tip Gene!

Thanks DBB. Although I don't have the subject kit, I appreciate looking at other's fine work. Thanks. For what it's worth -- as concerns removing supports, I just upgraded to the Mars 5 Ultra, and using it with Anycubic ABS-Like (Pro 2 ) resin , I've had an "astounding" (by my previous experience) zero print failures. That resin has a flexibility that is most forgiving when removing supports, which on delicate items I remove after curing. Using fine supports on pieces like 1/72 boarding ladders, lets me easily remove the supports with just a little finger pressure. Nub cleanup is minimal. I like Lychee Pro to arrange supports since it's easy to mix medium with fine supports on delicate parts. Gene K

Welcome aboard, John! Kev

Morning Duncan…..funnily enough I’ve been replying to your thread on colours over on BM! Hope all’s going well with your venture into masks, plenty of advice and examples here for you to find out about masking. Max

By way of an introduction to the forum here are a few of my previous builds, up until now I have been using commercially available paint masks for my builds. I am hoping to change that with the recent purchase of a Cricut Explore 3. HobbyBoss 1/48 Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat (all markings painted using a Montex vinyl masking set) [url=https://duncanblack.smugmug.com/Box-art/HobbyBoss-Grumman-F4F-4-VF-6-USS-Enterprise/i-9Lknwfh/A][img]https://photos.smugmug.com/Box-art/HobbyBoss-Grumman-F4F-4-VF-6-USS-Enterprise/i-9Lknwfh/0/L3jczW4hxk8wpj7tgRLQq4g6ckBf8WK6cXmVSLW7F/L/2018-09-11%2014.20.41-L.jpg[/img][/url] HobbyBoss 1/48 F4F-3 Wildcat (all markings painted with the exception of the Squadron badge, serial numbers and 'US Navy') [url=https://duncanblack.smugmug.com/Box-art/HobbyBoss-F4F-3-Early-VF-41/i-N8Bk4Lg/A][img]https://photos.smugmug.com/Box-art/HobbyBoss-F4F-3-Early-VF-41/i-N8Bk4Lg/0/KbGBfFgcDnJfDsfzd35fkkGHbfFZcdgCqBQSGB4kM/L/IMG_4333-L.jpg[/img][/url] Eduard 1/48 Fw190D-9 (all markings painted with the exception of the small stencils) [url=https://duncanblack.smugmug.com/Box-art/Edit/i-vhmdK7b/A][img]https://photos.smugmug.com/Box-art/Edit/i-vhmdK7b/0/MZ4K8nhBNm4K7WLjPRK8Xh883GSmPvF7fjgC9pLDz/L/IMG_1978_zps6vdg9iwd-L.jpg[/img][/url] [url=https://duncanblack.smugmug.com/Box-art/Edit/i-qDHG59z/A][img]https://photos.smugmug.com/Box-art/Edit/i-qDHG59z/0/MhwvTFmfJLz7TW6rds2mP7b7pkqwkgP3CXp9PfS3h/L/IMG_1969_zpsjinbs6uy-L.jpg[/img][/url] Duncan B

View File DUNLOP tires Here are markings for adding DUNLOP to road racing car tires. The blue circle will help estimate the size of stencil for a particular kit and can be either deleted or selected as a non-cut before cutting. Use a non-solvent paint if painting rubber tires, as solvent paints will soften the rubber. Dunlop racing tires, or tyres for my UK audience, also had a small logo ahead of the D but this is too small for a stencil. Different racing series used different tire brands and sometimes would change from one season to the next. Per usual, check references or just go for it and use them anyway. Submitter craig b Submitted 02/12/2024 Category Vehicles - Civil  

Thank you Gene, that’s very good of you and much appreciated I can assure you.