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    KJ233/NV:G of 79 Sqn in Burma, seen at 2:55 in this short film: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060025281 Date? The latter part of 1944-1945, I can't be more precise than that at the moment. Includes spares of all markings.
  4. View File ThunderboltMkII-79Sqn.studio3 KJ233/NV:G of 79 Sqn RAF in Burma, seen at 2:55 in this short film: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060025281 Date? The latter part of 1944-1945, I can't be more precise than that at the moment. Sized for Hasegawa 1:32 kit. Includes spares of all markings. Submitter MikeC Submitted 05/16/2022 Category Specific Aircraft
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  6. Hey! Question, Im trying to get the files onto the silhouette designer, but it won't load it. Might it be to big or am i doing something wrong? Thank u in advance
  7. Hello everyone and thank you for letting me participate! My name is Gert-Jan Zegel (41) and i'm a proud owner of a silhouette cameo 4 since yesterday. I want to make paint masks for my scale model planes and i hope i can learn some tips and tricks from all of you!
  8. Thank you very much to all of you. Cheers, Franz
  9. Welcome Franz, enjoy your Cameo 4 and the satisfaction and fun that comes in the package! Max
  10. Hi Franz, good to have you here
  11. Welcome aboard, Franz! Kev
  12. Thank you for accepting me here. I'm totally new at this, just got my Cameo 4. Hope to make a contribution in the future. Thank you for sharing tutorials and files!. Franz
  13. Thanks, Max. I get it now! Kev
  14. Yes, regretfully I didn’t take a picture of the “empty” mask with the black background sprayed in it, so both of the fins in the first photo are actually at the next stage of the smaller Hakenkreuze positioned inside the “empty” mask ready for the white over spray. Hope that’s all clear but if not I’ll do a further picture of explanation!
  15. Thanks, Max. In the first photo, the first mask appears to have some sort of thin border around it. I can't quite work out what I'm seeing. Kev
  16. Over on LSP I'm doing a Dragon Bf110G-4, the extract in the link shows a less-than-successful attempt at doing the Hakenkreuze on the fins, and thanks to Quang and his expertise, the easier way....also shown below for a quick ref.: Hope it helps, it's certainly the best way that I've "found" of doing these tricky symbols. Max
  17. Here are the settings I use when cutting Oramask 810. NOTE: Since this picture was made I've increased the speed to 6. Perhaps it could be set at a higher speed but that's your decision. OVERCUT simply extends the corner cuts beyond the apex and guarantees the corners are sharp and the mask pieces separate completely.
  18. Your result for making your own masks for this Swedish kit is beyond words. I have a love hate with this scheme. I love the look of it, but hate the thought of doing it! I also have a KV-107 (Hp4) kit that I have seen in this Swedish splinter scheme which includes splintered rotor blades, but never had an inclination of trying to do one until now. This opens our hobby up to so much more. Cheers, Harold
  19. The Designer version is well worth getting, in fact I would class it as ESSENTIAL! The applications in the basic edition are very limited for modelling needs.
  20. Just another test... Kev
  21. Ah, ok. Something to keep in mind. I have the Designer version.
  22. I managed to find a manual in english in the folder where the swedish manual was located. Thanks anyways. It turns out the "Layers" function is not in the "Basic" tier of the software, it begins showing up in "Designer"
  23. Very nice, Greg. Thanks much. Gene K
  24. Where are you in NW FL, Jim. I'm near Pensacola. Gene K
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