All Activity

Interesting idea, Guy. I think it's workable, but finding the right material is the key. I would worry that the adhesive backing would cause some cloudiness or lack of clarity - especially if disturbed during application. I've made landing light covers out of clear office tape, and had to be very careful not to touch the adhesive side, or all you'd see was a giant fingerprint. And of course, that type of material doesn't lend itself to being used on a cutting machine. I'd be curious to hear what ideas other members might have. Oh, I've used clear resin for this application too, and the secret is to use the UV curing gel, and hit it with the UV light after shaping it flat, and before it gets a chance to 'dome out'. Kev

Hi guys, The topic title says it all really. The reason I'm asking is the suitability for instrument glass. A guy called Gazzas is building the new Kotare 1/32nd scale Spitfire on LSP and has just completed his instrument panel. He's used clear resin and it looks good but the resin has set in a domed fashion, like a drop of water. My thoughts are whether it would be possible to pre-cut a range of circles out of clear masking material to use as the instrument glazing. What are the opinions of those in the know please? Cheers, Guy

Hello Red Dog, Sounds like you are trying to print cut lines that have not been given any "weight". Those red lines are for the cutter to follow, but if you want to print them, first select all the lines, then use the LINE STYLE (fifth icon down on the right hand side - looks like three parallel horizontal lines - top one is dashed, middle is a thin line, and the bottom is a bottom is a fat line). You can also, while you are there in Line Style, assign different colors to lines/objects that you individually select, and then you are able to selectively send those colores lines to be cut (or sketched, etc) using the Send/Lines tab. In this case, if you'd like to print the design, your Print Preview will show all the colors, as will your print. Suggest you become familiar with the Line Style as well as the Fill tool just above the Line Style icon - you'll be using them frequently as you grow with Studio. Gene K EDIT: The weight (thickness) you give to a line has no bearing on the cut line - that's still present. The line you made is for your visual benefit.

I tried to do this recently for the first time too, and had the same result, so I'm interested in this discussion also. Kev

Welcome aboard, sir! Kev

Have a silhouette Cameo 4 and I cut masks for my models but my knowledge of the process is very limited. Looking forward to learn tips and tricks and get better with the software and cutting

Hello gents, I'm struggling with a basic function i can't get to work. Often i want to print my design files from the silhouette studio software before cutting. But when I print I always get a blank page no matter what's on the studio file. I must be missing something stupid? Thanks

Thank you for the file and the comprehensive explanations !

How thick is this clear acetate you're successfully cutting?

Kotare Spitfire Mk. Ia Masks View File Kotare Spitfire Mk. Ia Insignia Masks ... these have been drawn based on the kit's decal sheet (ie nothing has been traced). Obviously these haven't been tested (yet) but should hopefully give you guys a basis to move forward with and save you a bit of time Working on the canopy masks, but that could take a bit more time Submitter CB_357 Submitted 03/18/2023 Category Specific Aircraft  

That's an understatement! The Studio Trace tool will pick up every tiny zig and zag that your Threshold setting dictates. The resultant "wonky" vector trace can be simplified by reducing the number of nodes manually, but doing so with the automated Simplify tool will smooth out the trace in places where you need very precise lines or curves. Simplifying a trace of Minnie Mouse is great, but not so for a precise mask drawing. A "real" graphics program like Inkscape has much better tracing capability, but your best option would be to invest some time in learning how to vector trace manually. In that regard, manual vector drawing/tracing in Studio is straightforward, and it's easy to edit as you fine fine tune the mask (by making repeated patterns to trial fit). What you learn in Studio drawing vectors will carry over to other vector programs - so it's an art/skill that will serve you well for many other interests you may have! 👍 As regards the the kind of adjustments you are wanting to make for inside-canopy masking, the Studio Offset tool is one tool you can use - just specify the distance from your main drawing. Refine only one side of the mask, and then use the Mirror tool to make a perfect opposing side . Gene K

Thanks, Scott!

Indeed, welcome Scott. It would seem that you have a lot of experience to bring to the forum. Max

Welcome aboard, Scott! Kev

Hi, I am Scott Bricker I started building again around 2002. My main focus is aviation in 1/48. I am the current President of Northern Virginia IPMs and aim to help spread this great hobby of ours and share tips and tricks so we all can get better. I currently have a Cameo 4 and have been making masks for years for my builds. I look forward to sharing some of my masks in the coming future. You can find me on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/ssbricker I run or help manage a couple of aviation groups and pages. Group Build Groups https://www.facebook.com/groups/aroundtheworldgroupbuild Around the World - Small Air Forces Group Build https://www.facebook.com/groups/f4ucorsairgb F4U Group Build https://www.facebook.com/groups/p40gb/ P-40 Group Build https://www.facebook.com/groups/detailandscale Detail and Scale Modeling Pages https://www.facebook.com/NorthernVirginiaIPMS/ IPMS Northern Virginia https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100064255527035 Civil Model Aircraft Website https://www.79thfightergroup.com 79th Fighter Group

More post-update post testing! Kev

ICM I-16 32001 Paint Masks for markings View File There was no option for the USSR/VVS so I chose specific aircraft. A quick scan and trace of the kit decals, I already cut them and it looks allright to me. Enjoy! Submitter coolingthunder Submitted 03/07/2023 Category Specific Aircraft  

I haven't seen the F-16 canopy from that kit, but from what is sounds like I would create strips that follow the edges of the canopy and use tape to fill in the rest. Like this: And I just used the same pieces on the inside too. The canopy isn't that thick, so it didn't seem to need to be shrunk. Dave

Thanks guys! I have tried by cutting masks the old school way and then scanning them in, just struggling to find how much smaller I should make them for the inside. I tried a fairly basic canopy, and that worked more or less okay, also tried the new Kinetic F-16AM (no masks out for that one yet), but the extremely complex curve of that canopy (it's one giant bubble) makes it hard to do. I made something that kind of works, but not sure if it is good enough. I have found that the automatic tracing feature of Studio is not really amazing, it struggles making right angles where needed, tends to round them off, and straight lines can go a bit wonky.

You can also get ideas on-line by searching for commercial masks ... to see how companies laid out their masks.😇 Gene K

I can't really add anything to what Kev and Max have said, except to say that some ICM kits have templates for canopy masks in the instructions. Thus it's a pretty simple job to scan and import into studio. And welcome aboard.

@coolingthunder It depends how complex or curvy the canopy is. My go-to method is simply to measure each section of the canopy as carefully as I can then draw it in Studio. Once the mask is complete I then test fit each section, note where tweaks are necessary then amend as necessary. The canopy for the T7 Hunter was impossible to do by this method so I did as Kev suggested; I put masking tape over the canopy and traced the glazed outline with a pencil, then took it off and used it as a flattened template. I took a photograph of that then imported it into Studio to trace to get the correct mask shape. Max