How do you go about creating canopy masks?

[coolingthunder]

So as the title says, basically...

I have successfully traced a few old and yellowed decal sheets and made pretty decent masks out of them, but that was scanning and auto-tracing (or manual for the tricky bits).

 

But I always have something to trace. Of course you can't really stick your canopy in the scanner and do it that way. (I guess you could do it once but it wouldn't be that useful...)

 

Sooo then how do you guys (and the masking companies) do it?

[Kevin Futter]

One way that I've seen (but not done myself) is lay masking tape over the canopy, and then trace the frames with a pencil. Remove the tape, stick it to a piece of paper (you may have to section it to get it to lay flat), and then you've got something to scan. I'd imagine it would require a bit of clean up, but is probably still better than guessing.

 

By the way, welcome aboard!

 

 

Kev

[denders]

I have AutoCAD on my notebook computer from doing consulting work after I retired. Then export a dxf file. I find it easier to create with that over the Silhouette Studio software. Although I use Studio for other simple things too.

 

I've also used Affinity Designer (similar to Illustrator) to trace things too. Then export is as an svg file.

 

I use a caliper to measure distances estimate radius diameters, etc. and draw the pieces. Sometimes a circle template is useful for radii too. Then save as a dxf file and import into Studio and cut a set. I then check how each piece fits and make adjustments. Most pieces without curves take at most two iterations. Pieces with curves may take one or two more iterations.

 

Dave

 

[Mozart]

@coolingthunder

 

It depends how complex or curvy the canopy is.  My go-to method is simply to measure each section of the canopy as carefully as I can then draw it in Studio.  Once the mask is complete I then test fit each section, note where tweaks are necessary then amend as necessary.  

 

The canopy for the T7 Hunter was impossible to do by this method so I did as Kev suggested; I put masking tape over the canopy and traced the glazed outline with a pencil, then took it off and used it as a flattened template. I took a photograph of that then imported it into Studio to trace to get the correct mask shape.

 

Max

Edited February 13 by Mozart

[MikeC]

I can't really add anything to what Kev and Max have said, except to say that some ICM kits have templates for canopy masks in the instructions.  Thus it's a pretty simple job to scan and import into studio.

 

And welcome aboard. 

[GeneK]

You can also get ideas on-line by searching for commercial masks ... to see how companies laid out their masks.😇

 

Gene K

[coolingthunder]

Thanks guys! I have tried by cutting masks the old school way and then scanning them in, just struggling to find how much smaller I should make them for the inside.

 

I tried a fairly basic canopy, and that worked more or less okay, also tried the new Kinetic F-16AM (no masks out for that one yet), but the extremely complex curve of that canopy (it's one giant bubble) makes it hard to do. I made something that kind of works, but not sure if it is good enough.

 

 

I have found that the automatic tracing feature of Studio is not really amazing, it struggles making right angles where needed, tends to round them off, and straight lines can go a bit wonky.

[denders]

I haven't seen the F-16 canopy from that kit, but from what is sounds like I would create strips that follow the edges of the canopy and use tape to fill in the rest. Like this:

 

 

And I just used the same pieces on the inside too. The canopy isn't that thick, so it didn't seem to need to be shrunk.

 

Dave

 

[GeneK]

On 3/1/2023 at 1:57 AM, coolingthunder said:

I have found that the automatic tracing feature of Studio is not really amazing, it struggles making right angles where needed, tends to round them off, and straight lines can go a bit wonky.

That's an understatement! The Studio Trace tool will pick up every tiny zig and zag that your Threshold setting dictates. The resultant "wonky" vector trace can be simplified by reducing the number of nodes manually, but doing so with the automated Simplify  tool will smooth out the trace in places where you need very precise lines  or curves.  Simplifying a trace of Minnie Mouse is great, but not so for a precise mask drawing.

 

A "real" graphics program like Inkscape has much better tracing capability, but your best option would be to invest some time in learning how to vector trace manually. In that regard, manual vector drawing/tracing in Studio is straightforward, and it's easy to edit as you fine fine tune the mask (by making repeated patterns to trial fit). What you learn in Studio drawing vectors will carry over to other vector programs - so it's an art/skill that will serve you well for many other interests you may have! 👍

 

As regards the the kind of adjustments you are wanting to make for inside-canopy masking, the Studio Offset tool is one tool you can use - just specify the distance from your main drawing.  Refine only one side of the mask, and then use the Mirror tool to make a perfect opposing side .

 

Gene K