Mozart

What size are these letters Kev? 3mm is just about the threshold I reckon for successful stencils with Silhouette. I agree with Gene, I’d do them as two separate masks. Sounds like you’ve increased your blade depth rather than reducing it, I’d go with Wuger’s settings but with a Force of 6. Max

Glad you found us John, you won’t regret buying a cutting machine, it opens up so many possibilities. Max

Welcome! The skill thing may be true, but we’ve all started from the same baseline…..nothing! It’s great fun and very rewarding learning though…..and fortunately that never ends.

Thank you! I hope you enjoy your time here and continue to find it useful.

I've prepared a mask for my Hunter and uploaded it and, as promised, kept details of each stage which I'll write up as a form of tutorial over the next few days. Max

View File Hawker Hunter F5 canopy Canopy masks, inside and out for the Hawker Hunter. The masks were produced specifically for the Echelon Vac form kit, comparisons with the Revell Hunter show that the latter canopy is slightly wider than the Echelon so if used, these masks may need a bit of tweaking. Submitter Mozart Submitted 08/26/2023 Category Canopy Masks  

Hello Boom. I have done several, they are not easy but are worthwhile when done. The method depends on the type of canopy; if it’s fairly flat then careful measuring, drawing out on the computer and test fitting (usually several times) is the way. This was the case with the Avro Anson: But if it’s a domed or curved “bubble” type of canopy I have firstly put kabuki-type masking tape over it, traced the edges with a pencil to get the line of the curves then taken the masking tape off and laid it out flat. Then I’ve scanned it into the computer and drawn the edges as previously, as on the Hawker Hunter T7: I hope this helps. It could be that others have different and perhaps better methods but this one works for me. Max PS I’m going to be doing a mask for a Hunter canopy very shortly so I’ll record every step as a tutorial, conveniently it involves both methods described above:

Sorry I can’t help in this discussion, my Cameo 2 is old school so the blade is set manually……sometimes less is more methinks! Hope you get it sorted soon Mdb. Keep us posted please.

Welcome mdb, getting your settings right is important so ask if your problems continue. Max

Morning Scan and welcome.

Bonjour Benoit et bienvenu!

"Is it possible to use one mask, apply to the model, then weed while it's on the model and replace the little bits of mask?" Yes, absolutely it is. Like all things it takes practice but it's what I do with all of mine, even complex masks like this: What is important for all masking processes is to think carefully about the order of painting and masking so that you have the minimum of mask removal and replacement. With the serial number for instance it was not necessary to replace the numbers, a simple piece of tape over the whole thing was used as can be seen in the middle picture. Max

Hello Lime, Just out of interest, what scale are we talking about here? All of mine are 1/32 and in that scale I’d do what you have suggested, overall white first, replace the entire mask and weed out the pieces that need to be black. I presume the “slits” are the narrow “L” shaped pieces in each corner? If so, spray black first of all then replace the mask (I assume you’re using a piece of transfer mask to do this precisely) then you can weed out the broader “L” pieces that need to be white. Hope this helps Max

I’m old and retired too, so welcome to both clubs! I hope you find what you need here, are you a Silhouette/Cricut user? Max