denders

I see that Ammo has something that appears similar. I don't know anything about it, though. SB shows Out of Stock for the Tamiya sheets.

Hmmm, Electrostatic Technology, don't need a 'sticky' mat. Interesting. That would mean that the material you're cutting has to go under the rollers. I tend to cut appropriately sized pieces and put them on the mat. I guess that would be more useful to folks who cut larger items.

Cool!

Hmmm, that sounds strange. Are you sure? What kind of blade? I'm adding some photos here. Two of the photos point out something I did with my first attempts to cut masks which left the appearance of not cutting. 1. This is an AutoBlade and the little tool will loosen or tighten the bottom of the blade housing. It's useful to clean out little bits that might become stuck inside the blade. When you take the end off the AutoBlade housing, the blade is visible. 2. If you're not using an AutoBlade for Cameo 4, you will have to manually set the depth of the blade. 3. The 'handle' that I have hold of, is the latch for the blade. Note that looking in the small hole in the first picture it is black and in the second picture it is green. Green means it is latched. The first couple cut attempts, I didn't realize this is a latch and when the machine did it's thing for setting the blade depth, it just pushed the blade upward and the blade barely touched the mask material. 4. something else to point out, the AutoBlade movement in total is 1mm. That means each depth setting 1,2,3, etc. is adjusting the depth by 0.1mm or 0.004". Dave

Hello mdb, You can create a new material and name it Oramask 810 or whatever. In the area where the settings are, click "MORE". At the bottom of the list are + and - signs, click +. You can make settings and then save them for future selection. I've used 810 and I'm also using Artool Ultramask. AutoBlade Depth 2 Force 6 Speed 5 Passes 1 Accel. 1 Dave

Hasegawa P-51D Windscreen (1/32) View File Windscreen Masks for the old Hasegawa P-51D Submitter denders Submitted 04/15/2023 Category Aircraft - Military

I haven't seen the F-16 canopy from that kit, but from what is sounds like I would create strips that follow the edges of the canopy and use tape to fill in the rest. Like this: And I just used the same pieces on the inside too. The canopy isn't that thick, so it didn't seem to need to be shrunk. Dave

I have AutoCAD on my notebook computer from doing consulting work after I retired. Then export a dxf file. I find it easier to create with that over the Silhouette Studio software. Although I use Studio for other simple things too. I've also used Affinity Designer (similar to Illustrator) to trace things too. Then export is as an svg file. I use a caliper to measure distances estimate radius diameters, etc. and draw the pieces. Sometimes a circle template is useful for radii too. Then save as a dxf file and import into Studio and cut a set. I then check how each piece fits and make adjustments. Most pieces without curves take at most two iterations. Pieces with curves may take one or two more iterations. Dave

Well, that was easy. 😉

I've no idea where you're located, but this is the frisket that is being spoken of. Search (midwestairbrush.com) Dave

NP, Gene. I used .010" sheet and cut 8 circles to glue together. I used an Autoblade I used settings: Depth 3 Force 25 Passes 2 Speed 6 (I forgot to change it slower) The circles weren't cut all the way through and I had to finish them with a scalpel. Probably affected by the speed. I could have set the depth to 4 too. Supposedly each increment in the depth is 0.1 mm which converts to .00393", with a depth setting of 3 it should have been .0118". Next time I'll try to remember to slow it down and set the depth to 4. The ring is for the cowling supports (12) as highlighted in this photo.

I have some sheets that are from Tamiya. I probably picked them up from SB. I haven't used them yet. There are plain sheets and sheets with a 1 mm grid on them. Dave

And it just occurred to me that I was mixing up measuring units in my first post. The blade depth, IIRC, is tenths of a millimeter. So, using the idea of my post above this one, I would need to go all the way to depth 9 to get a clean cut through, theoretically. 😉

Thanks, Gene. I'm definitely going to have to experiment with it. Hmmm, thinking about it, if I use an auto blade, set the first pass at depth 1 and make perhaps a couple of passes. Then without removing the material from the cutter, run it again with a depth of 2, etc. I'm wanting to cut two 1/16" wide rings with a 1.25" OD. Something to work at. Dave

Has anyone used their Cameo to cut 0.032" styrene plastic sheet? I've seen where some folks have cut 0.010" sheet. I'll probably try using a manual blade set to depth 4.

Thanks Gene. I don't remember where exactly, but someone pointed out that Ctrl-E will join them.

I have a Cameo 4. I cut the necessary size piece of material and stick it to the cutting mat. I don't use the roll feed. Over time, the stickiness of the mat will reduce. I use a Blade Depth of 2, Force 6, Speed 5. That should work for 810. Dave

I've been using Artool Ultra Mask. I think it works well and I've been buying it in a 9.5" wide roll. That should work in the Cameo if you're wanting to use it by the roll. I've been preferring to cut pieces and using the sticky mat, that way it's less likely to move around. I have some Oracal 810, purchased from Oramask® 810 Stencil Vinyl – CraftCutterSupply.com I bought the Ultramask from Artool Ultra Mask Professional Masking Film (midwestairbrush.com) Dave

I've been using Frisket for a transfer media.

I have both Affinity Designer and CS6 (old version) of Adobe Illustrator. AD will export svg files and the version of Ai that I have will export dxf files. I assume newer versions of Ai will export dxf files. You will need to upgrade to the Designer version of the Silhouette software to import svg files. You have to go all the way to Business version to import Ai files. The standard version will import dxf file. If you haven't seen this comparison of versions. Software Comparison Chart (silhouetteamerica.com) I haven't tried the font files that you're listing. Affinity has a free trial version, if you want to check it out first. I haven't looked on Adobe but I imagine they have a free trial too. Affinity is a more economical competitor to some of the Adobe products. They had been running a half off sale, but I'm not sure it's still active. Dave

Welcome!

Ah, ok. Something to keep in mind. I have the Designer version.

See what comes up in from this link. cameo-4-en.pdf (silhcdn.com) You may have to right click and open it in a different tab.

Open the Layers Panel. The layer that contains the image should have two 'squares' on the left. Obviously the Eye changes display of the layer. The 'square' with nothing in it is the Lock. Try that.