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Mozart

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Everything posted by Mozart

  1. Kev, I don’t doubt that you have contributed a lot in terms of effort and cash in opening this site, and this purely for altruistic reasons. I’m also sure lots of the masks that have freely been uploaded by those of us who enjoy using our Silhouette and Cricut machines have been used by site visitors, but there is no discussion/interaction element forthcoming. Without that, the site stagnates sadly.
  2. Given the amount of “traffic” and interest shown in this site Kev, despite efforts to promote it on other forums, I have to question whether it’s worth continuing? I’m happy to throw a few pennies in the hat, but is it really money well spent? Max
  3. I’ve been using my Cameo 2 for, I think, about 8 years now. It came with pretty basic software and the one-time purchase of the Designer edition was essential, but I understand that the Cameo 4 comes with a much more comprehensive software package, so do what the others have advised……try it first to see if you need more “tricks”. Max
  4. Yes I can see why you prefer the insignia first method Kev, but it’s not something that I’ve really tried. Many ways of skinning a cat as they say!
  5. This is a tale of what NOT to do! Designing and cutting the masks for the wing Balkenkreuz was straightforward but using them was not my finest hour! Let me say first of all that I got away with it, more by luck than judgement but boy, did I make life difficult for myself: Anybody with half a brain would have used an "empty" mask of the whole cross to spray a white background, then simply apply the four white L masks and spray black....voila, job done, easy peasy! But for reasons unbeknownst to me I applied the whole mask to the wing, left the "white Ls" in place and then sprayed black. This then entailed putting the fiddly narrow outer "Ls", four to each cross, back in place plus the large central cross, weeding out the "white section Ls" then spraying white. The margin for error was huge, the method was stupid, but the result was gratifying! Never again....think first! Max
  6. I've just uploaded these masks for the Fisher T7 Hunter canopies, not easy to design with any degree of accuracy and even then its use comes with a caveat that a little trimming once applied will probably be necessary due to a slight inconsistency in size of each "matching" canopy section. Hope it's useful! Max
  7. Hawker Hunter T7 (Fisher conversion) View File After a little nudge from Mike C., I've tweaked my rather indifferent first attempts at canopy masks for the Fisher Hunter T7. It's not an easy mask designing project due a) to the shape of the canopies b) the not too good definition on my canopy between glass and metal framing and c) a slight inconsistency in size for the canopy sections ie left and right of the main canopy and matching sections of the front. So using these masks comes with a caveat: they fit well but not perfectly so on the front ones especially you will need a fresh blade in your scalpel to make small adjustments! Nonetheless, I hope they are useful to those fortunate to have this Fisher conversion. Max Submitter Mozart Submitted 06/08/2022 Category Canopy Masks  
  8. Version 1.0.0

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    After a little nudge from Mike C., I've tweaked my rather indifferent first attempts at canopy masks for the Fisher Hunter T7. It's not an easy mask designing project due a) to the shape of the canopies b) the not too good definition on my canopy between glass and metal framing and c) a slight inconsistency in size for the canopy sections ie left and right of the main canopy and matching sections of the front. So using these masks comes with a caveat: they fit well but not perfectly so on the front ones especially you will need a fresh blade in your scalpel to make small adjustments! Nonetheless, I hope they are useful to those fortunate to have this Fisher conversion. Max
  9. Ah chequers, don’t you love’em! You’ve made a good start Kev but in my experience “touch ups” are almost inevitable in some areas.
  10. Welcome Franz, enjoy your Cameo 4 and the satisfaction and fun that comes in the package! Max
  11. Yes, regretfully I didn’t take a picture of the “empty” mask with the black background sprayed in it, so both of the fins in the first photo are actually at the next stage of the smaller Hakenkreuze positioned inside the “empty” mask ready for the white over spray. Hope that’s all clear but if not I’ll do a further picture of explanation!
  12. Over on LSP I'm doing a Dragon Bf110G-4, the extract in the link shows a less-than-successful attempt at doing the Hakenkreuze on the fins, and thanks to Quang and his expertise, the easier way....also shown below for a quick ref.: Hope it helps, it's certainly the best way that I've "found" of doing these tricky symbols. Max
  13. The Designer version is well worth getting, in fact I would class it as ESSENTIAL! The applications in the basic edition are very limited for modelling needs.
  14. Hello Jeepee, you’ve come to the right place to find out about using a Silhouette and, by the way I’m old too (nearly 74 but still learning all the time!). Your question about using other “forms” isn’t an easy one to answer because it depends on so many variables, but to be honest I’ve always done all my drawing work using the Silhouette software. It’s very straightforward and I think user friendly. You’ll find some helpful tips in Tutorials section but if you have any specific questions just ask away! Max
  15. Welcome Jim, and we’re glad you’re here!
  16. Good to see you here Gassman, and yes, you certainly have discovered a whole new world! I rarely, if ever, build OOB so getting the right markings was always a (sometimes) frustrating and expensive struggle. That fact alone made me invest, and I use the term wisely, in a Silhouette Cameo machine 8 years ago. In those days the inbuilt software was limiting to some extent for my needs so I bought the Designer upgrade, and have never looked back! I understand the newer machines have this included as standard. I have no practical experience of Cricut machines but anecdotal evidence points towards it not being as comprehensive nor flexible as the Silhouette especially on the software side, but don’t quote me on that. Most of your questions are answered already on the forum; if you take a while and read through some of the tutorials you’ll find many tips there, but in summary the Silhouette machine comes with a cutter which does all you need unless you want to cut thicker, harder materials like plastic sheet, in which case you simply buy a slot-in alternative….I did and it works fine when I need it. Most of us use Oramask 810 sheet, but Cricut make some good sheets too, and Kabuki (masking) tape is right for some jobs where tight curves are required, like internal canopy masks. You mention you’re in the UK, where abouts? I’m in the Dorset/Somerset/Wiltshire area if that’s any use, you’d be welcome to see my machine and have a go! I learned by trial and error, and I’m still learning but having great fun as I do. Max
  17. Morning Tim, welcome! Get designing and cutting…..😁 Max
  18. Agreed entirely about stencils, there's no way the Silhouette cutter nor the vinyl can handle such small letters and numbers, but gun ports I would cut out of thin paper and secure with Gator glue or similar. That way you can control the shape, size and colour of the patch. Max
  19. Always a good idea Mike when you lose the will on one model, you’ll get back to it later. I’m hoping the Lancaster when it arrives will re-kindle my enthusiasm for bench time, but painting and website updates have kept me occupied in the meantime!
  20. One square at a time is the only way that’s worked for me Mike!
  21. Ah, chequers! Good luck with that Mike, I’ll be interested to see how you tackle that.
  22. This is a great thread Mike! It’s so easy to get the impression with a finished model that all went supremely, faultlessly well. I’ve never achieved it, and I applaud you for showing the common “whoopsies” that can occur during the masking/painting process. Max
  23. I’ve scanned decals in the past Mark, then loaded the scanned image onto the Silhouette drawing screen, scaled it to the correct size for 1/32 scale then traced the image. My Cameo 2 only had the free software when I bought it 8 or so years ago so I bought the Designer package which extends the capabilities of the Silhouette immensely, so if you haven’t got that on your machine I highly recommend it. Elsewhere on the this, under Tutorials I think, is a detailed guide of how I go about doing what you’ve after. Max
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