Mozart

Thanks Kev, the Typhoon kit is such a pleasure to build. I was afraid that it would be somewhat intimidating with all of Peter’s detail to work with, but it’s so well engineered that it’s quite straightforward.

Undercarriage bay, very detailed:

This is a summary of a build that is going on over on LSP. The kit, produced by Peter Castle of Airscale fame is a mixture of very finely and detailed 3D parts and injection moulded parts, the latter comprising the fuselage, wings, horizontal tailplanes and canopy. At the time of writing, the kit is not yet available, this is an early test kit only. I have produced masks for the two marking options in this kit, R8884 of 183 Squadron and JP843 of 197 Squadron. They are available to download here and here The cockpit "time lapse": Painted, assembled and decalled: Seat belts added and temporarily in place in the fuselage: More later! Max

Yes, in England. I produce the masks for the Airscale kits so use Oramask 810 on an almost “industrial” scale, currently nearing the end of an initial order for 250 canopy masks. Other than the obvious, I don’t understand why Oramask 810 isn’t easily available in the US, but then quite a high number of kits aren’t either! Let us know how you get on please. Max

Where do you live Henrik? I could send you some 810 to test. Max

You’re welcome Henrik, but before accepting any limitations, because there aren’t any excepting letter sizes that can be cut, please try some 810 rather than the 810S. And yes, as I have cut on that example, 10 and 5mm circles, which also means you can see how small the letters are. Max

I can subscribe to both of those conditions! 🤪

Here you go Henrik: Settings as mentioned above using Oramask 810.

Hello James. Firstly, the Cameo is more than capable of cutting that, have no fear. What’s more important is the order in which you do the masking/painting. I would: Produce an “empty” mask, ie a mask which is the size of the star which will include the thin border. Put in place and spray the star outline colour, presumably white? Once dry, put the star including the thin outline in place inside the empty mask Weed out the main star and spray red Remove all masking….hopefully a good result! When doing designs which include thin outlines, the trick is to not have to remove the thin part as an individual item because replacing it accurately is not easy! Hope this is understandable and helpful. Max

Away from home at the moment Henrik but will do it as soon as I’m back. Max

Those circles are pretty poor, and your expectations are certainly not too high. I choose not to use any of the “helpful” gizmos in the software, I draw all of my shapes from scratch and cut using a single pass, force 6 or 7, and blade depth 5, this all using Oramask 810 only. My Silhouette is now 12 years old so newer models shouldn’t be experiencing these difficulties.

I think it’s more difficult, like many things these days, to get in the US. Over here in the UK it’s readily available.

810S is a different beast to 810, to my mind the latter is the way to go. If you want the mask to go around curves or bends, you need to add a few well placed “cut marks” which will help it to hold the curve. This Typhoon canopy mask shows what I mean along its gently curving edges: Max

Welcome Nicky, no matter what or where the application, masks (especially homemade) are the way to go! If you have any specific questions, fire away. Max PS Sorry I’m a bit late with the welcome!

Bienvenue sur le forum Pascal, j'espère que vous vous amuserez ici et que vous apprendrez beaucoup d'informations utiles ! 1/72, c'est très petit! Max

Oramask 810 is my favourite. Some people complain that it shrinks over time if not used on the kit but I have never had that problem. Max

I’d be interested to hear what you think of it Joe. I use a Cameo 2, almost antediluvian in that it’s now 11 years old and doesn’t do many “tricks”, but it’s more than adequate for my mask making.

Welcome Joe, both to the forum and the wonderful world of making masks! Max

I have recently uploaded the marking masks for the Airscale Hawker Typhoon which is due for release in the New Year. The chosen schemes are a) for 183 Squadron R8884, a very early production Tiffy, portrayed in its distinctive markings worn during Exercise Spartan and b) JP843 of 197 Squadron. Both are car-door variants but differ slightly in several areas. The masks include wheel centres on both as are wing walkways. R8884 had a broad stripe running from just aft of the spinner, terminating forward of the cockpit so masks for this are provided. On JP843 there are masks for the black and white ID stripes painted under the wings, 12 and 24 inch in width on the real thing. QR codes will be on the box which link to these masks. When available and designed I’ll be uploading the masks for the canopy. Max

Good to see you here Mark....and another long time Mac user welcomes you, I really don't know why people bother with Windows! 😃 Hope you enjoy your time here, join in with the chat and contributions whenever you feel like it...the more the merrier! Max

Hawker Typhoon 197 Squadron JP843 These are the masks designed for the Airscale Hawker Typhoon JP843 OV-T of 197 Squadron. The masks include the underwing identification stripes, wheel centres, wing walkways and the aircraft letter (T in this case) worn by most 197 Squadron Typhoons on the leading edge of the wing inboard of the inner cannon. File Information Submitter Mozart Submitted 11/27/2025 Category Specific Aircraft View File

Hawker Typhoon 183 Squadron R8884 These are the masks designed for the Airscale Hawker Typhoon R8884 TF-L of 183 Squadron. The markings are specifically as applied during Exercise Spartan and include the white identifying stripe along the nose. Also masks for wheel centres and wing walkways. File Information Submitter Mozart Submitted 11/27/2025 Category Specific Aircraft View File

Yep, me too. Guy, I know you are using a laser cutter now, can you give us some info on what you have and how successful it is?