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Mozart

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Everything posted by Mozart

  1. I’ve had my Silhouette since 2014, I needed the “professional” upgrade to get features which it now appears are standard on new models. I don’t know what the SW upgrade comprises so I’m sorry but I can’t comment. Max
  2. You're making the right decision getting a mask-cutting machine, glad to see you here. Max
  3. Good to see you here Pascal. Hopefully some of the tutorials here will help you get started with your Silhouette but ask if you have any problems. No guarantees for answers but we’ll do our best!
  4. Like that very much Steve, especially the finish you’ve achieved. Brilliant! Max
  5. You’re welcome Tom, hope the masks are of use.
  6. Final stages, whole roundels put back in place then red centre removed, replaced and blue outer done: The transfer piece here is sold for Cricut machines - low tack, completely clear (which is a distinct advantage) and with the grid on it which helps: and before very long at all:
  7. Well done Bax, welcome to the merry band!
  8. Thank you Mark, I'm happy that it's coming along quite well. 😁 I've started on the fuselage roundels: firstly the "empty" mask was put in place: and the white base collar sprayed: This was quickly followed by the yellow outer area: Tomorrow I'll put the whole roundel back in place then firstly "weed out" the red inner circle, leaving everything else as is. When that's dry, the red centre mask goes back in (easy to get this correctly centred) and the blue outer weeded out and the area sprayed. When all the mas
  9. Mark, not dumb questions at all. The best material for masking is low-tack vinyl, Oramask 810 is very popular but Artool make similar products. Leaving masks on? I can only speak from my own experience using MRP lacquer-based paints as my standard paint. I get my masks off as soon as the paint is dry (typically 15 minutes with Oramask) but I have also left them on for a couple of days on occasions with no problems. Hope this helps but ask more if you need. Max
  10. Funnily enough I haven't built that many WW2 RAF fighters in standard camouflage, and those few I have "free-handed" with the airbrush. But with the sublime Tamiya Spitfire kit I decided to explore making camouflage masks. I scanned the colour A3 sheet provided with the kit then imported the image onto the Silhouette screen, starting with the wings: I measured the distance from leading to trailing edge on the kit where the wing walk stripe goes, then scaled the image onscreen to match that distance (just draw a straight line the measured distance, rotate a
  11. View File Camouflage and insignia masks for Mk IX Spitfire These masks were drawn from the Tamiya instructions for their Mk IX Spitfire but are probably useable on many types as a generic scheme. Please note, I drew these for my own use, they are not perfect and not professionally produced so will probably need "tweaking" if you decide to use them. The screenshots show location of the camouflage sections, it presumes that a base coat of Ocean Grey has been applied so these allow for Dark Green only. UPDATE 26/3/21 I've amended the file for the fus
  12. Version 1.0.0

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    These masks were drawn from the Tamiya instructions for their Mk IX Spitfire but are probably useable on many types as a generic scheme. Please note, I drew these for my own use, they are not perfect and not professionally produced so will probably need "tweaking" if you decide to use them. The screenshots show location of the camouflage sections, it presumes that a base coat of Ocean Grey has been applied so these allow for Dark Green only. UPDATE 26/3/21 I've amended the file for the fuselage; on fitting the masks to my model I found that I had omitted to provide a mask for th
  13. Welcome Dave! Chequers are one of the hardest things to do in my experience, easy on a flat surface agreed, but get a curve or a narrowed surface like a rear fuselage and it becomes very, very tricky both to design and apply. Good luck!
  14. Good to see you here Jamme. 😄 Are you a Silhouette user already or interested in getting one and the opportunities it offers? Max
  15. I understand your frustrations, been there done that! Simple answer first, I NEVER omit using the mat, it’s there for a purpose and that it to stop the cutting material sliding about, which it will do, so you don’t end up with any sort of cut at all. The settings assume you are using the mat. I only use Oramask 810 vinyl and my settings are blade 2, force 4, speed 5, pass 1. If I cut something else, like plastic, I experiment depending on the thickness and hardness of the material but experience means it’s usually quickly resolved. If I’m using a photograph I just literally drag i
  16. That’s a bit of an angry sounding introduction Snigel. I’ve posted a couple of tutorials which I thought were pretty basic and straightforward, “Working efficiently” was the first one which detailed the main buttons used in drawing masks and mentioning one or two possible pitfalls. Let me know which areas you need more help with, without any “effing” thanks. Max
  17. Good to see you here John. You know the masking routine, it all becomes EVEN more fun when you can design and cut your own. Max
  18. Mozart

    RAF Fonts.

    I think they would have been painted at the factory, the AM contract would have stipulated colours. I have a copy of the North American Co. build and maintenance manual for the AT6/Harvard which specifies very precisely the size, colours and positions of both American and British colour schemes so I’m sure the Republic Co. had the same.
  19. Mozart

    RAF Fonts.

    I see what you mean Ade. The serial numbers look like American-style stencils, which I guess is a distinct possibility because they were applied at the factory in accordance with the original contract and batch numbers, whereas the squadron codes were painted on at squadron’s base on arrival using the approved Air Ministry lettering style. An interesting colour film: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060025281 Max
  20. Super clear for any aspiring Silhouette users Alex, well done and thanks. Max
  21. Thanks Giorgos, interesting! Not sure I've got a "transform panel" on my older Silhouette, I'll check the next time I need to use it.
  22. Interesting Wuger. I didn’t really understand the full reason for the speed setting, but the explanation there of the more complicated designs or patterns needing a slower speed makes sense. From my experience a Force of 9 on the “Silhouette setting”, (odd that they quote machine and not specific material within the vinyl section) is just about on the margin of cutting vinyl and its backing. Max
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