Mozart Posted August 13, 2020 Posted August 13, 2020 I've done the nose of my Lightning this afternoon so recorded the masking sequence that I followed. This isn't the only way of doing it, there are shortcuts when transferring the mask to the transfer piece for instance but this is how I did this particular one today: Firstly I prepared an "empty" mask, a negative one if you like just to get its position right and to spray the background white areas ready for the roundel and the chequerboard: Then I took my transfer piece and placed it over the mask, carefully lifting it from its backing sheet onto the transfer piece. This is fiddly and needs care: The transfer piece/mask was placed over the "negative one", making sure all lined up as well as possible. Clear Frisket film makes this slightly easier but in this case I found the 6mm squares didn't stick well enough to the Frisket so moved out of alignment. Once in position the roundel centre mask and squares to be sprayed red were removed: When dry, the roundel centre mask was replaced using the register marks for accuracy. The mask for the white middle ring doesn't need to be touched. The outer ring mask is removed, this is the blue area. The chequerboards can simply be covered up with tape, no need to replace the squares individually. Then the blue is sprayed: When dry, all masks removed for the final reveal! I've never yet done chequerboards that don't need a bit of touching up: Hope this helps a little. Max 8 Quote
Kevin Futter Posted August 13, 2020 Posted August 13, 2020 Thanks for the tutorial, Max. The results look great! Kev 1 1 Quote
Jerry Laawson Posted August 26, 2020 Posted August 26, 2020 Very helpful. Thanks for sharing. Really like the results. So much better than decals. 1 Quote
Mozart Posted August 27, 2020 Author Posted August 27, 2020 20 hours ago, Jerry Laawson said: Very helpful. Thanks for sharing. Really like the results. So much better than decals. You’re very welcome Jerry. I remember the first time I used (commercially produced) masks I found it really difficult to understand the order of doing things and actually made a right hash of it, so if my thread helps you to do it more successfully then my efforts will have been worthwhile! 😃 1 Quote
BlueNosers352nd Posted September 2, 2020 Posted September 2, 2020 On 8/27/2020 at 1:53 PM, Mozart said: I found it really difficult to understand the order of doing things That's the problem I had. I did it in the wrong order and had to touch of white that bled out. The other issue I have is getting the right pieces to peel off when transferring. Would love to see someone do a whole video on their process. 2 Quote
dashotgun Posted December 14, 2020 Posted December 14, 2020 what do you use as a transfer tape? Quote
KingCanberra Posted January 27, 2021 Posted January 27, 2021 (edited) I think that the issue with the red edges to the white segments is bleed. Either capillary action along the joins or down the joins. Three possible solutions: After placing the white area masks put a thin skim of white down to seal the edges and joins (may result in white edges to the red though) Make sure that you do not put a wet coat on (in this case the red) Mask the joins where the add in masks mate with the base mask (tape or masking liguid) Edited January 27, 2021 by KingCanberra 2 Quote
Mozart Posted January 27, 2021 Author Posted January 27, 2021 No, it’s not bleed at all, just a minuscule misalignment of the mask, so easy to get this wrong with chequers. Quote
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