GeneK

On 8/8/2020 at 9:11 PM, Wrongway_Joe said:

See https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/software/silhouette-studio-features-comparison-chart for a comparison of each upgrade.

Chart has moved to here:

https://www.silhouetteamerica.com/software/chart

Gene K

Here's an updated link to the Software Comparison Chart denders posted a couple of years ago.

For starters, the most important/useful features in Designer versus the free basic version are: PNG autotrace; and the ability to import vector files (as pdf and svg) to have the program automatically generate cut lines (vice using the program's much less precise trace feature).

As one progresses to the point of doing manual vector drawing (or tracing), the additional features of the Designer version will come in handy. My recommendation is to invest in the Designer version from the get go.

Gene K

On 11/8/2020 at 3:11 PM, Mozart said:

Any questions or comments welcome!

I have a comment ... fantastic explanations!, thanks I appreciate that your post took a lot of effort, not to mention the beautiful model "work".

Gene K

On 6/9/2022 at 3:58 AM, Hannover said:

Learn the basics of the software first before spending money on the Business version and upgrade when you need to do something the base version won't allow.

 

The Business edition is way more than an average hobbyist "needs".

HOWEVER, the upgrade from the basic to the STUDIO edition is worth it if for no other reason that you can drop vector files like svg, pdf, and png into the program, and cut lines are automatically generated -- no need for tracing, removing extraneous nodes, etc.  This page shows the feature comparison among the three editions, and this page shows pricing ... well worth it to get the Designer edition as Mozart suggested.

Gene K

snigel79,

If you can hack Fusion 360, you should certainly be able to work your way through Studio!!! Fusion is harder on people (like me) coming from more intuitive Windows based programs, than it is for folks (like you) going the other direction. Most everything in Fusion has it's own way of having to do simple things like moving bodies or sketches. SO I can appreciate your frustrations coming from the unique Fusion environment.

However, I don't think anyone can give you the  personalized hand holding that you seem to be looking for. Just takes grinding in front of the computer with Studio and YouTube (which has some excellent starter videos, in my opinion). And you clearly have a terrific command of English, so there's lots available to read ... but there is no Fairy Godmother with a Studio wand to tap you on the head.

As for your not being able to easily see what you are drawing, go over to the Line Style Panel on the right of the screen  (fourth from the top) where you can pick the color and  thickness of your lines (that thickness does not effect the cut). Learn how to do that and later when you start cutting, you can select different actions by color - in the example below, cut the blue lines only though the vinyl, cut the green lines all the way through the carrier backing material, and sketch the red and black lines.

As was pointed out by  Mozart, I also recommend highly that you invest in the Designer edition, if for no other reason than you can then open/drag in vector art (like vector PDF, SVG and others), and Designer will instantly generate cut lines without the need to trace either manually or with the Trace Panel. I think you'll eventually find that drawing in Studio easier than Fusion since there's no struggling with constraints, for example. Of course, there's nothing that matches the precision of CAD.

Hope you stay with it!

Gene K

EDIT: I just realized that  you originally posted over a year  ago, so all above is probably passé for you now ... right?

Beautiful production. Thanks.

Gene K

A timeless "tutorial". Thanks.

Gene K

That was a nice journey for me -- thanks, Mike.

Gene K

Nice tips, Woody - thanks.

As an aside, I've used the Silhouette Studio Print And Cut feature  - print on decal paper, then use the cutter to cut the decals. Many tutorials on YouTube for both Silhouette as well as Cricut. If the cuttter is properly tuned/aligned, the film cuts can be made very close to the decals' images.

Gene K

On 6/18/2022 at 10:06 AM, snigel79 said:

Does the oracal stuff come in rolls that fit the silhouette cameo 4? Or do I have to cut it up into peices to fit the machine? How does it compare cost-wise to artools  maskingmaterials?

I use Oramask 810* (note NOT Oracal, the company). Like denders, I get mine here where you can get it in individual pieces and/or rolls.  If you buy a roll. yes, you can load it into the Cameo 4's built in adjustable-width holder. Not sure why you'd want to do that since the masks most of us use in modelling wouldn't be large enough to require a roll.

Much easier, as danders suggested, to cut a piece off a roll and mount it on a cutting mat.

I use two cut settings: one to only cut the patterns through the vinyl; and the other to cut an outline around the masks all the way through the backing. That process gives me an easy to handle piece, for example, to use with transfer tape.

The Oramask price, I think, is reasonable, but haven't compared it to other masking material - works for me.

Gene K

*Oramask comes in versions - 810 is the most flexible, whereas 811 and 813 are better for flat surfaces. 

Hoops,

Do you have a handy reference for the placement of the plates?

Thanks,

Gene K

How did it go with correcting the A and E, Greg?

On 4/2/2022 at 11:48 AM, GeneK said:

Where are you in NW FL, Jim. I'm near Pensacola.

Nevermind.

Gene K

Thanks hoops. I cut some masks this morning and the fit was spot on!

Next week I'll use those as a base for some Has TF-104 masks. 

Have you made any masks for the Revell F-104?

Gene K

Very nice, Greg. Thanks much.

You can "solve" your type problem (as with the A and E in MARINES) by installing the truetype fonts of Long Beach USN (free trial) or USN Stencil (free). They are essentially the same save for miniscule spacing.

USAF Font is Amarillo USAF.

The "real" download button on these pages is the small one on the right edge of the page on the LARGE FONT NAME line. 

Gene K

Where are you in NW FL, Jim. I'm near Pensacola.

Gene K

Thanks. Is this for the Meng 1/24 or 1/32 kit?

Gene K

Mike,

I can't view your pictures from earlier in this thread (2021) -- have you changed servers? Any chance of getting the pictures back?

Gene K

What an outstanding way to illustrate mask placement!!! Really well done.

Gene K

On 10/5/2021 at 3:52 PM, Scimitar F1 said:

 My Cricut Air 2 really struggled with the USS Midway mask and anything smaller than that. Can I ask what cutter you used to create these masks?

Will,

Not sure if you are asking me or Michel, but here is my take:

Disclaimer: I use a Silhouette Cameo 4, and have no experience with a Cricut.

Like you, the many factors I had to tune to get the finest cuts include: material (I use Oramask 810); blades (I use 60degree for fine); mats (I use standard grip OEM); and software  -- cut settings such as depth, pressure, speed, number of passes (I experimented and created my own Oramask Material Profile including slowest speed and one pass). Silhouette software also has settings for track enhancement and overcut (I use track enhancement, but overcut depends on the design).

I am amazed at how precise the Cameo cuts, and marvel at how repeatable the cuts are.

Gene K

Appreciate your adding this section! Hopefully we'll see some innovative cut files posted here. 

I'm refining some 1/72 F-4 Phantom Silhouette cut files (plus accompanying SVG), including Seamless Intakes and belly reinforcement straps. If someone has a parts request for a specific Phantom model, I can probably work it up.

Gene K

On 9/7/2021 at 8:45 AM, denders said:

...  the scan came into Studio correctly scaled. Not like a regular jpg file that needs scaling after import.

Why do you have to re-scale "a regular jpg" after importing? Is the scanner not set up to output at 100% (fullscale)? 

EDIT: I just scanned a ruler and saved the output as jpg, png, pdf, and tif ...  and all imported (dragged) into Studio in the same true scale. I also varied the resolution from 75 to 600 dpi with no impact. I use a Canon printer/scanner with the Canon software (IJ Scan utility). Shouldn't make any difference, but what scanner and program are you using?

Gene K

P.S. I'm enjoying this thread, so thanks ... could you post your attachments at a higher resolution, please, so I can more fully appreciate your work?