Non-Mask Cutting Files

For the new FineMolds 1/72 F-4E late ... and F-4G and S if released.

Silhouette file is color coded, so chose colors to be cut (with/without rivets).

I use .005" plastic with settings: force 33, passes 1, and depth 6.

My choice of adhesive is Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Set used very sparingly. Tack center, then position and tack end of each leg.

I will post svg file for use in other brand cutters or for manual tracing.

Gene K

Tailored for Hasegawa early F-4E, G, and S kits. Using the straps on other kits like FineMolds or Fujimi will require alteration since panel lines differ. 
 
Screenshot shows the cut settings for .005" plastic.
 
To use --  assemble reinforcements to strap using Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Setting  Cement - used VERY sparingly. Attach to wing by positioning top "ears" and carefully tack top of strap into place. Then adjust arms into position and affix.
 
The rivets are color coded to allow cutting or eliminating via cutting by color option.
 
Gene K

This file adds the missing saw toothed RAM (Radar Absorbing Material) Panels for the bottom of the Hobby Boss 1/72 scale Rafale kits.

This is a replacement part for the "Trumpeter" 1/48th scale Vickers Wellington Mk. III geodetic constructed floor. Part number G17, Kit number 02823. I'm not sure if it will be too visible through the windows, but at the very least it should allow more light into the interior of the aircraft fuselage.
 
NOTE: The part is very fragile, with the frame cross-members only .3mm across. I plan on glueing on parts G2, G18, E5 and E13 BEFORE removing the 3D printed supports. Also, I think it might be best to cure the part first with the supports in place.
 
The second image depicts my first attempt at printing the flooring (Version 1). The bulkheads were not correct, and as you can see, some grid sections broke while others warped as a result of removing the supports before curing and glueing of accessory parts.
 
The first image is the kits original part...

Plastic Inserts to eliminate "slat slot step"  by fairing the area under the slats smoothly into the wing top surface.

Hi guys,
 
I spent way too much time on this but I hope it will be useful to someone.
The slats arms aren't included as they prove too small for the machine but styrene profiles can be used if needed.
 
Here is what the prototype looks like with the slat held up with white tack.
 
 
 
 

This is my first attempt at constructing a 3D model in a CAD program (don't ask how long this took, lol) It's not perfect by any means and I had to "scale" it one millimetre or two narrower before I printed it out.
 
(It is not permanently attached in this sample image - just placed)  Also, I cut the copilot seat apart (seat and backrest) and will glue this to the inside of the frame after it's painted black.
Lastly, I cut the copilot rudder bars, and re-attached them in the "stowed" position.
The "spare" control column will be hung on the rigging.

Here is a studio file to replace A-10 engine latches.
It's not meant to cut as masks but to cut material.
Scaled for 1/32 - meant to be used with 0.3mm styrene sheet
Red for engraving, blue for cutting. 
 
 
 

Belly Strap for 1_32 Tamiya Phantom for Posting.svg
 
SVG file for those who have cutters other than the Silhouette.

Belly Strap for 1_32 Tamiya Phantom for Posting.studio3:
 
I made this belly reinforcing Strap for an outstanding modeller (Anthony) in New Zealand who is doing a spectacular conversion of the Tamiya 1/32 F-4 to a British FG.1 here.  My source material from the Internet included photos, tech diagrams, AfterMarket sets, and model kits. I cut the strap using .010" plastic in my Silhouette Cameo 4. The straps are tailored to the Tamiya 1/32 kit, so would need modification to fit other kits' panel lines and wheel wells.
 
Also attached is an svg file for use with other cutting machines.
 
Gene K
 

Applied to early production F-16s to increase their fatigue life.
 
Cheers,
Hoops

Hi Folks. 
Here is my 1/32 Phantom thin wing conversion.
Be aware that there is a lot of other steps necessary to achieve a true B Phantom conversion, but this is a good start point.
 
For the general "how to", please refer to my topic on LSP.

Better cut the outer panel parts in 0.5mm sheet as the original wing is 1mm (assemble 2 to get the thickness) the inner detail was cut in 0.3 on my build.

Have fun, and if you happen to use this successfuly, dont hesitate to leave me a little comment on how it went.

Cheers.

Mathieu

Parts I used to convert the Hasegawa 1/32 Fw-190a5 to a4.
Ailerons masks are to be cut in vynil and covered with surfacer.
All other parts in thin plastic.