Mozart

Mark, not dumb questions at all. The best material for masking is low-tack vinyl, Oramask 810 is very popular but Artool make similar products. Leaving masks on? I can only speak from my own experience using MRP lacquer-based paints as my standard paint. I get my masks off as soon as the paint is dry (typically 15 minutes with Oramask) but I have also left them on for a couple of days on occasions with no problems. Hope this helps but ask more if you need. Max

Funnily enough I haven't built that many WW2 RAF fighters in standard camouflage, and those few I have "free-handed" with the airbrush. But with the sublime Tamiya Spitfire kit I decided to explore making camouflage masks. I scanned the colour A3 sheet provided with the kit then imported the image onto the Silhouette screen, starting with the wings: I measured the distance from leading to trailing edge on the kit where the wing walk stripe goes, then scaled the image onscreen to match that distance (just draw a straight line the measured distance, rotate and move it over the wing image and drag that out to match the line size). Once that was established it was very easy selecting the line "figure of eight" draw tool to (manually) trace the outline of the camouflage lines: I had already put down a base coat of Ocean Grey so the masks for those areas were pulled off and carefully laid in place on the wings. It took no time at all to spray the Dark Green resulting in crisp lines when the masks were removed: That was the easy bit done, then "3D fuselage would be a different matter. But first I decided to finish the upper and lower wings. Slight problem, unaccountable problem, with one roundel on which the blue lifted when the mask was removed, no idea why: but the other was fine: There was a potential problem with the under wings; the centre of the roundel coincides with a large fairing....."lump" to me, that no mask or decal for that matter is going to willingly conform to. I sliced around it carefully once the roundel mask was in place then used masking fluid to fill the gaps. Worked well enough: Adventures with the fuselage: I wasn't sure of the best way to go about these masks - separate port and starboard ones or a one piece "wrap-over" one. Well after a few experiments the latter wasn't that practical. So I used the same technique as the wings - scanning, importing (and flipping one image), scaling, tracing: which ended up something like: (but this has now been revised and uploaded to this site.) Screenshots showing mask positions: and after applying to the model, spraying and removing: Drawing the fuselage masks involved a certain amount of trial and error, and there is still a little touch up to do but generally speaking it's been a successful exercise. Please feel free to download the masks but please read the caveat with the masks. When I do the fuselage and tail markings I'll add them to this thread. Max

View File Camouflage and insignia masks for Mk IX Spitfire These masks were drawn from the Tamiya instructions for their Mk IX Spitfire but are probably useable on many types as a generic scheme. Please note, I drew these for my own use, they are not perfect and not professionally produced so will probably need "tweaking" if you decide to use them. The screenshots show location of the camouflage sections, it presumes that a base coat of Ocean Grey has been applied so these allow for Dark Green only. UPDATE 26/3/21 I've amended the file for the fuselage; on fitting the masks to my model I found that I had omitted to provide a mask for the port side above the tailplane, this is now included and positioned on the sheet in the bottom right hand corner. Also amended are the engine panels, the original versions were too high. Max Submitter Mozart Submitted 03/24/2021 Category Specific Aircraft  

Welcome Dave! Chequers are one of the hardest things to do in my experience, easy on a flat surface agreed, but get a curve or a narrowed surface like a rear fuselage and it becomes very, very tricky both to design and apply. Good luck!

Good to see you here Jamme. 😄 Are you a Silhouette user already or interested in getting one and the opportunities it offers? Max

I understand your frustrations, been there done that! Simple answer first, I NEVER omit using the mat, it’s there for a purpose and that it to stop the cutting material sliding about, which it will do, so you don’t end up with any sort of cut at all. The settings assume you are using the mat. I only use Oramask 810 vinyl and my settings are blade 2, force 4, speed 5, pass 1. If I cut something else, like plastic, I experiment depending on the thickness and hardness of the material but experience means it’s usually quickly resolved. If I’m using a photograph I just literally drag it across into the Silhouette screen then scale it to a suitable working size by using the handles at each corner. Then I can send it to the back, sounds like you know about that, and start tracing.....and I always do this manually. It’s sometimes difficult to see the line you draw, I always work in red but the colour of course can be changed, but again working in a zoomed in way helps resolve that. I hope this is of some help! Max

That’s a bit of an angry sounding introduction Snigel. I’ve posted a couple of tutorials which I thought were pretty basic and straightforward, “Working efficiently” was the first one which detailed the main buttons used in drawing masks and mentioning one or two possible pitfalls. Let me know which areas you need more help with, without any “effing” thanks. Max

Good to see you here John. You know the masking routine, it all becomes EVEN more fun when you can design and cut your own. Max

I think they would have been painted at the factory, the AM contract would have stipulated colours. I have a copy of the North American Co. build and maintenance manual for the AT6/Harvard which specifies very precisely the size, colours and positions of both American and British colour schemes so I’m sure the Republic Co. had the same.

I see what you mean Ade. The serial numbers look like American-style stencils, which I guess is a distinct possibility because they were applied at the factory in accordance with the original contract and batch numbers, whereas the squadron codes were painted on at squadron’s base on arrival using the approved Air Ministry lettering style. An interesting colour film: https://www.iwm.org.uk/collections/item/object/1060025281 Max

Super clear for any aspiring Silhouette users Alex, well done and thanks. Max

Thanks Iain! 🙂 Max

I have! 😊

Thanks Giorgos, interesting! Not sure I've got a "transform panel" on my older Silhouette, I'll check the next time I need to use it.

Interesting Wuger. I didn’t really understand the full reason for the speed setting, but the explanation there of the more complicated designs or patterns needing a slower speed makes sense. From my experience a Force of 9 on the “Silhouette setting”, (odd that they quote machine and not specific material within the vinyl section) is just about on the margin of cutting vinyl and its backing. Max

Hello Cameron! Like Kev I’ve never heard of Sizzix (how do you say that word?) but I see from Google that it’s another type of crafting die-cutter like Cricut and Silhouette. All grist to the mill of making masks! Max

Good luck! Measure the decals provided with the kit so you know what size they are. When you have downloaded the file and have it on screen, choose a marking like the one you’ve measured, for example letters, circle, star etc then drag this to the size you want. Max

Scale of these masks shouldn’t matter, once downloaded you can adjust to any scale to suit. Max

Looks pretty impressive to me Steve! You’re right to start off gently! The more work I do on the Silhouette the more I realise it’s all about method, especially finding shortcuts that not only save time but ensure accuracy. An example from yesterday: I was drawing an “S”, it was a squarish one (WW2 RAF style) so there was a horizontal line of symmetry on it. I drew the top half, grouped the lines, copied it, went to “object” on the top bar, flipped it vertically then horizontally then joined the two halves together and grouped them as one. Easy.....and so much easier than drawing the whole thing! Max

Good to see you here Michel. If you’re an experienced Silhouette user please feel free to share your knowledge with others. Max

My settings Pat are a blade setting of 2, force 4, speed 5, 1 pass. Max

Welcome Patrick! No question is stupid, so ask away.......remember..... I learn, you learn, we all learn!

I really haven’t experienced that Giorgos and I don’t have an answer. I don’t understand why or how the size you have drawn it isn’t the size that the machine cuts, it seems impossible not to be! Sorry, I’m beaten for an answer. 😥

The small size of each “box” is the issue presumably? Each box is a rectangle so no problem drawing one and scaling it, but whether the cutter can cope is another matter. Max