August 18, 20214 yr I uploaded a file of Meteor roundels and walkways a little while ago. And here's the Meteor with the roundels painted - apologies for the "quick'n'dirty" photo. With hindsight, I would have traced and done the fin flash with the Silhouette as well; as it was, I used Tamiya tape and it was probably a lot more work. One more colour to do, ie black for the unit codes, serials and walkways. I'm doing VT112/XL-S of 226 OCU, a fighter training unit based at RAF Bentwaters in the immediate post-war years. (As an aside, they also operated a few Tempest IIs, and my SH example is earmarked for XL-Y.) Thanks for looking. Edited August 31, 20214 yr by MikeC
August 19, 20214 yr Right on the money Mike, she looks splendid…….and what a great “advert” for using masks. Looking forward to seeing the final masterpiece. Max
August 21, 20214 yr Author When you use decals, you can see the model gradually, slowly evolving - hopefully into what you'd envisaged - as you work. The gratifying thing about using the masks is that it's a bit quicker: you add lots of masking and do a bit of painting, and nothing seems to happen Then suddenly, seemingly in an instant, the masks come off, et voila! OK, the walkway lines are a little uneven in width, but I can live with that. What I can't live with (although I did seriously consider it) is that the starboard "S" is noticeably above where it should be. I've no idea how that happened, I blame the bench gremlins. Now I'm particularly glad I included a spare on the mask sheet. So not 10 minutes after the big reveal, it was out with a fine sanding stick, off with the "S", and a quick touch-up of the silver; the new S goes on next session when the touch-up's cured. Edited August 21, 20214 yr by MikeC
August 22, 20214 yr You’re right Mike, removing the masking is one of the great delights providing things go well, but as you say, even if a correction is necessary it’s usually done in an instant. ,
August 31, 20214 yr Author And finished. I'll do some proper photos in due course. It just fits in the IKEA display cabinet: turn it port quarter to the front and the door causes the pitot to bend a little.
September 1, 20214 yr 9 hours ago, Kevin Futter said: Terrific result, Mike! Looking forward to your glamour shots. Kev Agreed Kev. Any further thoughts about a WiP section for the site, or shall we do as Mike has done and put progress pics in the Gallery? Max
September 1, 20214 yr 22 minutes ago, Mozart said: Agreed Kev. Any further thoughts about a WiP section for the site, or shall we do as Mike has done and put progress pics in the Gallery? Max I'll definitely go ahead with it, I just need to find the time to set it up! Hopefully this week. Kev
September 1, 20214 yr 11 hours ago, Kevin Futter said: I'll definitely go ahead with it, I just need to find the time to set it up! Hopefully this week. Kev Excellent Kev; I'm into the painting and masking stage of my Hawker Fury, I've been keeping a record of progress so will post it there when you've set things up.
September 3, 20214 yr I've now set up the Works in Progress forum, and moved this thread into it as the very first entry! I'll let you guys read all about it in the Rules of the Road post. Kev
April 2, 20241 yr Author On 8/18/2021 at 4:53 PM, MikeC said: I'm doing VT112/XL-S of 226 OCU, a fighter training unit based at RAF Bentwaters in the immediate post-war years. Just as a quick update on this model, it's now left my collection, and has a new home in the Bentwaters Cold War Museum. This is a small but excellent museum, run by what is clearly an enthusiastic and committed bunch of volunteers, who include a number of modellers who are also part of the local IPMS branch. Thoroughly recommended if you're ever in that part of England.
January 30Jan 30 Well done! What tips can you offer when painting roundels? How do you ensure the next stencil you apply is centered, simply use the Mk I Eyeball?
January 31Jan 31 Author On 1/30/2026 at 11:48 AM, PinehillJoe said:Well done! What tips can you offer when painting roundels? How do you ensure the next stencil you apply is centered, simply use the Mk I Eyeball?Thanks.Basically, work from the centre out. What I've come to after reading a few "how-tos" and getting it wrong a few times since this model is to:Weed out the entire roundel, leaving only the surround in place on the model.Paint the entire roundel white (assuming a red/white/blue roundel)..Put the entire roundel mask back apart from the red centre: spray that red.Leaving the white, mask the red centre. Some folk make a separate centre circle slightly bigger than the red, or use liquid mask, to make sure the red/white demarcation is covered.Remove the mask where the blue will be, and spray that.Voila, one roundel.Using transfer tape helps to keep the mask elements in line, but it is mainly eyeballed. Edited January 31Jan 31 by MikeC
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.