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Mozart

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Posts posted by Mozart

  1. What size are these letters Kev? 3mm is just about the threshold I reckon for successful stencils with Silhouette. I agree with Gene, I’d do them as two separate masks.  Sounds like you’ve increased your blade depth rather than reducing it, I’d go with Wuger’s settings but with a Force of 6.

    Max 

    • Like 2
  2. 11 hours ago, Mdriesenga said:

    I've just joined and this post does a great job explaining the process.  Thank you.

    Thank you! I hope you enjoy your time here and continue to find it useful. 

  3. Hello Boom. I have done several, they are not easy but are worthwhile when done. 
     

    The method depends on the type of canopy; if it’s fairly flat then careful measuring, drawing out on the computer and test fitting (usually several times) is the way. This was the case with the Avro Anson:


    nTJmjt.png

     

     

    I3yLgG.jpg


    MwZSwN.jpg
     

    But if it’s a domed or curved “bubble” type of canopy I have firstly put kabuki-type masking tape over it, traced the edges with a pencil to get the line of the curves then taken the masking tape off and laid it out flat. Then I’ve scanned it into the computer and drawn the edges as previously, as on the Hawker Hunter T7:


    776XUg.jpg

     

    cSPkWV.png

     

    sP2Ya1.jpg


    i4z7K5.jpg
     

    I hope this helps. It could be that others have different and perhaps better methods but this one works for me.

    Max 

     

    PS I’m going to be doing a mask for a Hunter canopy very shortly so I’ll record every step as a tutorial, conveniently it involves both methods described above:

    7q05Gi.jpg
     

     

    • Like 2
  4. "Is it possible to use one mask, apply to the model, then weed while it's on the model and replace the little bits of mask?" 

     

    Yes, absolutely it is.  Like all things it takes practice but it's what I do with all of mine, even complex masks like this:

     

    gwxmKO.jpg

     

    YYKAOQ.jpg

     

    FjZuQf.jpg

     

    What is important for all masking processes is to think carefully about the order of painting and masking so that you have the minimum of mask removal and replacement.  With the serial number for instance it was not necessary to replace the numbers, a simple piece of tape over the whole thing was used as can be seen in the middle picture. 

    Max

     

     

     

     

    • Like 2
  5. Hello Lime,

    Just out of interest, what scale are we talking about here? All of mine are 1/32 and in that scale I’d do what you have suggested, overall white first, replace the entire mask and weed out the pieces that need to be black. I presume the “slits” are the narrow “L” shaped pieces in each corner? If so, spray black first of all then replace the mask (I assume you’re using a piece of transfer mask to do this precisely) then you can weed out the broader “L” pieces that need to be white. 
    Hope this helps

    Max 

  6. On 6/24/2023 at 8:29 PM, DaSWO said:

    Someone on another forum posted a link here, thought it looked like an interesting forum.

     

    I'm old and retired, so I plan on lurking more, posting less. 

    Thanks for letting me join.

    I’m old and retired too, so welcome to both clubs! I hope you find what you need here, are you a Silhouette/Cricut user? 
    Max 

  7. It’s a god result by Rob given how small and intricate the masks and font style were, plus the fact that he’s applied them to what appears to be a rough uneven surface…..not the kindest surface for getting a good seal and sharp edge. In this situation I always spray at right angles to the mask and gradually build up paint layers with several light passes. 
     

    Your feedback and thanks are much appreciated Rob, sadly it doesn’t always happen! 🙁

    • Like 1
  8. Gene, all’s well thanks, I’ve offered to do Rob’s masks.

    This is what Rob wanted:

     

    m2XxcB.png

     

    It’s a sign for a blacksmith’s (smederij) shop, the owner being named Klinkhamer! The larger letters are 4.5mm tall, the smaller ones 2.5mm. In this font it’s pushing the capabilities of the Silhouette for a clean usable cut but Rob can try.

     

    Max 

    • Like 2
  9. Hello Plinio!  Your modelling adventures are about to be made even more exciting with your new Cameo! All sorts of possibilities open up for you, and I hope the tips on this website are useful.

    Regards

    Max 

    • Like 1
  10. I’ve just had a thought Guy, though I haven’t tried it. Though I use Oramask, which isn’t clear, for my masks, I use a clear transfer piece cut from Cricut masking material which of course is self adhesive. This can be cut like any masking material and could well be your answer. I think I’ve said this to you before; if you want me to try this for your Spitfire just let me know the dimensions of each dial.

    Max 

    • Like 2
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