Jump to content

Kevin Futter

Administrators
  • Posts

    369
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    94

Posts posted by Kevin Futter

  1. 5 hours ago, geedubelyer said:

    Taking on board your comments Kev, perhaps circles cut out of clear acetate would be better. Secured with Future/Klear, pva glue or similar?

     

    It's worth a try, and probably what I'd try first. If you've got a spare panel to test it on before 'going live', I'd certainly recommend that. The problems will be twofold: getting exact size matches for the recesses, and keeping any glue smears out of the equation. But any kind of water-soluble glue that dries clear would be your best bet.

     

    My preferred method for constructing instrument panels is the 'sandwich method', where a clear acetate layer is sandwiched between a backing piece and the front part containing the dial holes. To me this not only produces the most realistic result, but also obviates all the difficulties with trying to produce an effective glass look for the dials.

     

    Here's one I scratch-built for the Matchbox Tiger Moth:

     

    CZySAb.jpg

     

    8QRvcj.jpg

     

    Of course, a lot of kit and even aftermarket panels don't lend themselves to this approach, and it also has nothing to do with cutting masks, either! Though I could imagine designing and cutting out the front part of the panel from thin styrene.

     

    Kev

    • Like 3
  2. Interesting idea, Guy. I think it's workable, but finding the right material is the key. I would worry that the adhesive backing would cause some cloudiness or lack of clarity - especially if disturbed during application. I've made landing light covers out of clear office tape, and had to be very careful not to touch the adhesive side, or all you'd see was a giant fingerprint. And of course, that type of material doesn't lend itself to being used on a cutting machine.

     

    I'd be curious to hear what ideas other members might have.

     

    Oh, I've used clear resin for this application too, and the secret is to use the UV curing gel, and hit it with the UV light after shaping it flat, and before it gets a chance to 'dome out'.

     

    Kev

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  3. One way that I've seen (but not done myself) is lay masking tape over the canopy, and then trace the frames with a pencil. Remove the tape, stick it to a piece of paper (you may have to section it to get it to lay flat), and then you've got something to scan. I'd imagine it would require a bit of clean up, but is probably still better than guessing.

     

    By the way, welcome aboard!

     

    :default_post1:

     

    Kev

    • Like 2
  4. Interesting idea, Guy. At the moment we don't really have such a place in a dedicated sense, as I always assumed members would make such requests in the applicable sub-forum that relates to their request. But a dedicated section would make things clearer, so I'll give it some thought!

     

    Kev

    • Like 2
  5. This was supposed to be a quick little side project to give me an excuse to print something on my Elegoo Saturn 3D printer, but like most of my projects, dragged on and got more complicated. I decided to try to recreate the metallic effects and overall weathering as close to what we see on screen as possible, and late in the piece, I decided it needed a base for stability purposes. The lettering on the base was cut iwth my Silhoutte Portrait and applied over a white base, and SMS Jet Black applied over the top. Took me 3 goes to get this right! So what was supposed to take a few days has ended up taking a few months, but here it is.

     

    RvrJ70.jpg

     

    hbr3Hv.jpg

     

    OZjlM9.jpg

     

    eF8hZT.jpg

     

    iDXcKn.jpg

     

    Thanks for looking! Now I need to get back to one of my many unfinished aircraft projects!

     

    Kev

    • Like 4
×
×
  • Create New...