geedubelyer Posted March 22, 2023 Share Posted March 22, 2023 Hi guys, The topic title says it all really. The reason I'm asking is the suitability for instrument glass. A guy called Gazzas is building the new Kotare 1/32nd scale Spitfire on LSP and has just completed his instrument panel. He's used clear resin and it looks good but the resin has set in a domed fashion, like a drop of water. My thoughts are whether it would be possible to pre-cut a range of circles out of clear masking material to use as the instrument glazing. What are the opinions of those in the know please? Cheers, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Futter Posted March 22, 2023 Share Posted March 22, 2023 Interesting idea, Guy. I think it's workable, but finding the right material is the key. I would worry that the adhesive backing would cause some cloudiness or lack of clarity - especially if disturbed during application. I've made landing light covers out of clear office tape, and had to be very careful not to touch the adhesive side, or all you'd see was a giant fingerprint. And of course, that type of material doesn't lend itself to being used on a cutting machine. I'd be curious to hear what ideas other members might have. Oh, I've used clear resin for this application too, and the secret is to use the UV curing gel, and hit it with the UV light after shaping it flat, and before it gets a chance to 'dome out'. Kev 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted March 27, 2023 Author Share Posted March 27, 2023 Taking on board your comments Kev, perhaps circles cut out of clear acetate would be better. Secured with Future/Klear, pva glue or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Futter Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 5 hours ago, geedubelyer said: Taking on board your comments Kev, perhaps circles cut out of clear acetate would be better. Secured with Future/Klear, pva glue or similar? It's worth a try, and probably what I'd try first. If you've got a spare panel to test it on before 'going live', I'd certainly recommend that. The problems will be twofold: getting exact size matches for the recesses, and keeping any glue smears out of the equation. But any kind of water-soluble glue that dries clear would be your best bet. My preferred method for constructing instrument panels is the 'sandwich method', where a clear acetate layer is sandwiched between a backing piece and the front part containing the dial holes. To me this not only produces the most realistic result, but also obviates all the difficulties with trying to produce an effective glass look for the dials. Here's one I scratch-built for the Matchbox Tiger Moth: Of course, a lot of kit and even aftermarket panels don't lend themselves to this approach, and it also has nothing to do with cutting masks, either! Though I could imagine designing and cutting out the front part of the panel from thin styrene. Kev 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mozart Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 I’ve just had a thought Guy, though I haven’t tried it. Though I use Oramask, which isn’t clear, for my masks, I use a clear transfer piece cut from Cricut masking material which of course is self adhesive. This can be cut like any masking material and could well be your answer. I think I’ve said this to you before; if you want me to try this for your Spitfire just let me know the dimensions of each dial. Max 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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