Mozart
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Mozart
-
-
-
-
-
That all sounds very interesting and promising Nektarios, I look forward to seeing some results especially how small the stencils can be cut. Welcome to the forum!
Max
-
1
-
-
Welcome Andy, great intro! I hope you enjoy your delve into the model-making hobby, being able to make your own masks is so fulfilling and useful. There’s lots of advice here but if you need more, ask away.
Max
-
1
-
-
-
-
Edited by Mozart
Good to see you here Pete! If you build in 1/32, are you a member here
It’s a great forum with very friendly helpful members, and administered expertly by Kev, see above.
Max
-
Hello Gary, and welcome. The Silhouette sticky mats are super (read “over”) sticky to begin with but some of it will soon wear off so that it’s manageable. You could try de-tacking it to a degree by just placing your hands on it a few times, or a sheet of paper then easing it off carefully. It’s a pain but something you just have to work through I’m afraid.
Max
-
2
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Canopies with straight edges are simple, less so those that are curved. For those I think there is no other way than Kev’s method; use Tamiya tape over the canopy, draw edges with a sharp pencil then apply to a flat surface. I usually then scan this, import it into Studio and trace. Then it’s a matter of trial fit, adjust, trial fit ad infinitum till accurate.
-
4
-
-
-
Edited by Mozart
Great result Joe/Phil! The arc tool is quite tricky to use in Studio, I always do curves the way that you have discovered using the “bendy” line tool in the largest screen size possible. Any misplaced points can be corrected and brought into alignment very easily.
On a canopy like yours, once I have got one corner curve accurately drawn, I copy multiple times, then go to “Object” on the top bar, and flip each corner horizontally or vertically to suit its position. Saves a lot of drawing time and aids consistency.
-
2
-
-
-
-
1
-
-
-
Edited by Mozart
Have a look here.
I have illustrated and described my routine which hopefully will answer your question, these are the most challenging ones to do accurately. Hope it helps Joe.
Recently sprayed underwing roundels using the same method:
Max
-
2
-
-
R8884 canopy.studio3
R8884 canopy.studio3
Masks for an early car door Hawker Typhoon
-
1
-
-
JP843 canopy.studio3
JP843 canopy.studio3
Masks for a late car door Hawker Typhoon
-
1
-
-
Edited by Mozart
I have uploaded camouflage masks in 1/32 scale for the Hawker Typhoon, specifically in my case for the Airscale one but they will obviously apply to the Revell or MDC ones. When used they will need a little extra masking in some areas, on the top of the nose for instance where the port and starboard masks (deliberately) don't meet in the middle. Some built-in user flexibility is always a good idea in my book. Used in conjunction with the Typhoon markings masks uploaded late last year, most Tiffy builders should be good to go.
Canopy masks have also been added, they are both for car-door types, one early and one late.
Max
-
2
-
So many questions !
in General Discussion
Thumbs up here for Oramask 810, fits the bill perfectly but I’d highly recommend Cricut transfer sheets for aligning the masks accurately. The “Tamiya” tape sheets are very expensive in comparison to Oramask and I find less forgiving to cut, but that could just be me.
When using Oramask for canopies’ compound curves it’s wise the make some strategically placed side cuts to help the mask to conform more easily, like these Typhoon ones:
Max