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denders

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Posts posted by denders

  1. Becoming a little less liking this stuff. It should stick on the canopy better than this. The canopy curve isn't that extreme and this is 32nd scale. I didn't wash the canopy parts although it isn't falling off, it's just not sticking over the curve. I'll be fine if I press it down when I go to paint, but....

     

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    • Sad 1
  2. Yes, those seem to have come out okay. I tried some cuts at Depth setting of 1 and I'm not sure if it actually cut properly. I also tried using this for the masks for the markings on the top surface of the wing above the flaps that I've gotten the idea it is something like 'NO STEP' and one of the Japanese characters did not cut well. I have not gone back and altered the speed and pressure yet.

     

    Right now, I'm working on the canopy masks for the Ki-100. I'll see how those turn out.

    • Like 1
  3. I ordered some of the Green Stuff World masking material. Each pack contains two, 200mm x 300mm (8" x 12") sheets.

     

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    I needed to make a half circle as part of the masking of the silver paint on my Ki-100 model (over at LSP). And I added a couple of the "64"s for the landing gear covers.

     

    I cut an 1.5" x 4" piece and placed on the Cameo cutting mat.

     

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    And sent through the cutter using the normal setting that I've been using for materials like Oracal 810 and Art tool Ultra Mask. The setting to note is the depth of 2. As you can see, with a depth setting of 2 it is close to cutting the whole way through. I ran another with a depth setting of 1 and it seems to have made the cuts without coming close to cutting through.

     

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    I then placed some of the cut masks on the onto the model. The half circle will be accompanied by tape to mask the under side of the fuselage, etc. I used Frisket as a transfer tape to place the "64"s. 

     

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    I found the GSW masking at Noble Knight Games. It was ~$4.30 per pack there, on the Green Stuff World (Spain) site it was ~$2.50 per pack. The Tamiya sheets were ~7" x 9", 5 sheets for about $11, if you can find it. Looking on the SB site, Ammo, Border, and Tamiya have masking sheets of various sizes and quantities. Some don't show in stock.

     

    I haven't decided on trying out the other material that I found, it's 12" x 11 yards at $65. If it works, it will probably last my lifetime. 🤪

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. The name Kamoi seems to be related to the material. Most listings on google show some sort of tape. I also saw some indications about that tape related to masking for painting automobiles but I haven’t gone on a search for a local automobile paint supplier yet. 

     

    I found that Green Stuff World has 200 x 300mm sheets. If I order directly from GSW it’s a pack of 2 sheets for about $2.50. But the shipping. I found someone here in the states who sells them for about 60% more. 

    • Like 1
  5. Anyone come across a source for sheets of the material like Tamiya tape? Other than buying the small sheets from Tamiya and others? Eduard and others are selling masks made from the same or similar stuff.

     

  6. Yes, assuming it's sharp.

     

    Something else to check on, remove the cover of the blade, where it sticks out, and make sure there aren't any little bits from previous cuts stuck inside.

     

    I'm on my notebook which isn't what I use for masks, etc. IIRC, my typical settings are Depth 2, Speed 5, Force 6. You could also peruse @Mozart's posts and check his settings. I'm sure there's one of his posts that he lists them. He's using a Cameo 3 too.

     

    The wife had knee replacement surgery 2 weeks ago and I have the notebook sitting on the end of the dining room table so I'm closer if she needs something. Not much modeling being done lately. 🙂 She's doing really well,btw.

     

    • Like 1
  7. You're correct, photos need to be hosted elsewhere.

     

    There are some other very generic blades that I've seen used, bought on Amazon. That's the reason I suggested a photo. When I first got my cutter, I joined a couple of FB groups to see what others were doing. Those groups were more generic in use than just masking for models.

     

    I have a cameo 4, for information. I've used a blade depth setting of 2 when cutting the Oracal 810 or UltraMask. I've also stuck with Silhouette blades.

     

     

  8. Hmmm, that sounds strange. Are you sure? What kind of blade?

     

    I'm adding some photos here. Two of the photos point out something I did with my first attempts to cut masks which left the appearance of not cutting.

     

    1. This is an AutoBlade and the little tool will loosen or tighten the bottom of the blade housing. It's useful to clean out little bits that might become stuck inside the blade. When you take the end off the AutoBlade housing, the blade is visible.

     

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    2. If you're not using an AutoBlade for Cameo 4, you will have to manually set the depth of the blade.

     

    3. The 'handle' that I have hold of, is the latch for the blade. Note that looking in the small hole in the first picture it is black and in the second picture it is green. Green means it is latched. The first couple cut attempts, I didn't realize this is a latch and when the machine did it's thing for setting the blade depth, it just pushed the blade upward and the blade barely touched the mask material.

     

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    4. something else to point out, the AutoBlade movement in total is 1mm. That means each depth setting 1,2,3, etc. is adjusting the depth by 0.1mm or 0.004".

     

    Dave

     

     

     

    • Like 3
    • Thanks 1
  9. Hello mdb,

     

    You can create a new material and name it Oramask 810 or whatever. In the area where the settings are, click "MORE". At the bottom of the list are + and - signs, click +. You can make settings and then save them for future selection.

     

    I've used 810 and I'm also using Artool Ultramask. 

     

    AutoBlade

    Depth 2

    Force 6

    Speed 5

    Passes 1

    Accel. 1

     

     

     

    Dave

     

     

    • Like 4
  10. I haven't seen the F-16 canopy from that kit, but from what is sounds like I would create strips that follow the edges of the canopy and use tape to fill in the rest. Like this:

     

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    And I just used the same pieces on the inside too. The canopy isn't that thick, so it didn't seem to need to be shrunk.

     

    Dave

     

    • Like 3
  11. I have AutoCAD on my notebook computer from doing consulting work after I retired. Then export a dxf file. I find it easier to create with that over the Silhouette Studio software. Although I use Studio for other simple things too.

     

    I've also used Affinity Designer (similar to Illustrator) to trace things too. Then export is as an svg file.

     

    I use a caliper to measure distances estimate radius diameters, etc. and draw the pieces. Sometimes a circle template is useful for radii too. Then save as a dxf file and import into Studio and cut a set. I then check how each piece fits and make adjustments. Most pieces without curves take at most two iterations. Pieces with curves may take one or two more iterations.

     

    Dave

     

    • Like 3
  12. NP, Gene.

     

    I used .010" sheet and cut 8 circles to glue together.

     

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    I used an Autoblade

    I used settings:

    Depth 3

    Force 25

    Passes 2

    Speed 6 (I forgot to change it slower)

     

    The circles weren't cut all the way through and I had to finish them with a scalpel. Probably affected by the speed. I could have set the depth to 4 too. Supposedly each increment in the depth is 0.1 mm which converts to .00393", with a depth setting of 3 it should have been .0118". Next time I'll try to remember to slow it down and set the depth to 4.

     

    The ring is for the cowling supports (12) as highlighted in this photo.

     

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    • Like 3
  13. And it just occurred to me that I was mixing up measuring units in my first post. The blade depth, IIRC, is tenths of a millimeter.

     

    So, using the idea of my post above this one, I would need to go all the way to depth 9 to get a clean cut through, theoretically. 😉

  14. Thanks, Gene. I'm definitely going to have to experiment with it.

     

    Hmmm, thinking about it, if I use an auto blade, set the first pass at depth 1 and make perhaps a couple of passes. Then without removing the material from the cutter, run it again with a depth of 2, etc. I'm wanting to cut two 1/16" wide rings with a 1.25" OD.

     

    Something to work at.

     

    Dave

     

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