cpoud117

Hi Gary,

Welcome aboard.

I cut Oramask 810 and Tamiya sheets without the mat and I've had no issues. I feed the masking material attached to its backing paper directly in the machine.

I've even cut sheet styrene without the mat.

In the page setup, select "None" under the Cutting Mat section.

For masks and without mat, I usually go with Bade depth 1, force 5, speed 3, 1 pass.

Best of luck.

Hi guys,

Here is the file I've created to cut FOD covers for Revell's Hawker Hunter.

The real thing as a sharp "fold" running along its length, and some handles. All of them are easy to replicate with a little plastic folding and lead wire.

You can glue them in place or fill the intake with white-tack/patafix for a more forgiving placement.

FOD covers for 1/72 Revell Hawker Hunter

Designed to cover the air intakes of Revell's 1/72 Hawker Hunter

View File

I have no idea. I looked into it but came up empty handed.

We'd need someone with experience with font creation / how they are packaged.

Hey @Jeepee
I'm glad you found it useful :)

Hi all
Quick workaround for those who want to use RAF_PW_ATH

Download Inkscape (a free, reputable vector graphic software). Write your text using RAF_PW_ATH. Export it as .svg

Load that .svg file in Silhouette studio (I have the designer edition)

And follow instructions below

What this allows you to do is to get a more consistent point distribution than what MikeC generously put together a few years back. Allowing for a more precise cut.

I hope this will help a few of you :)

Thanks @GeneK
I ended up using a mix of hasegawa single seater eduard masks and some old fashion masking but it came out ok.

That's the Revell TF-104G

Hi guys,

@GeneK have you ever gotten around to tracing masks for the TF-104?

I'm building the Revell TF-104G and I messed up the windshield, I'm trying to find a masking set I can use to redo it and I feel like you may have the answer :)

Thanks Kevin, I had no idea that could be changed and I've now reverted back to the classic display.

Hi Kevin,

If I may, I think having the categories listed without header cards and in a more traditional fashion makes for an easier browsing.

Most of us are used to LSP, ARC, BM etc and sticking with a familiar layout would, IMO, improve the forum ease of use.

Have a great day.

Nice one Gene, thank you!

Hello,

810s is 80 micron (0.08mm) thick.

https://www.orafol.com/en/europe/products/oramask-810s-stencil-film

Where is the 3mm coming from?

7 hours ago, GeneK said:

 

As well as others in 1/72 like the Sword Furies and the Special Hobby F-86H, F-86K , and F-86L ...  for starters. Would be great if, after ClearProp issues their 1/72 F-86A, they make the wing sprues available as overtrees (just dreaming ). Not likely to happen, so ...

 

 

Gene K

Looking good! 

You're going to have a full assembly line of 1/72 sabres before you know it. The hard part is going to be to choose the schemes 🙂

Nicely done! 

I don't have any of the Academy/Hobbycraft in my stash but these look like a solid improvement over the original kit part.

Thank you.

Hi @GeneK

I'm looking forward to seeing what your design.

I had a shape for the arms but it was too flimsy with 0.2mm styrene. I'm gonna find some 0.3mm at some point which I can use for such task.

The Hasegawa F-86D is also in need of a slat solution.

I'm looking forward to that 1/72 F-86A, so many cool ANG and Korean war schemes to model 🙂

3D printing really is the way forward, but it's a hobby within the hobby. I'll get around to it at some point.

There's a sabre GB coming up on BM at the end of august, if you're so inclined. 

Hi Gene,

The kit is back in its box and I've removed the prototype since I plan of cutting a fresh one when I get to the build.

Basically, I cut the slats following the kit panel lines, ignoring the "slots" on the bottom side which are supposed to represent the rails in a closed position but should not be part of the slat itself. See https://flyteam.jp/photo/3479768 or https://flyteam.jp/photo/3492515 for illustration. 

I then attached the slat part taken from the top wing, to the part cut from the bottom wing.

The inner section I've created fits directly in the space opened by cutting out the flap, connecting both the lower and upper wings. You may have to bend it a bit to conform to the leading edge curve, and achieve a realistic look.

That inner structure doesn't reach all the way to leading edge itself as it's meant to accommodate space for the slat to retract on the real A/C.

I hope this helps.

Thanks guys for the kind words 🙂

Hello there!

I'm a French expat in beautiful Estonia and a 1/72 aircraft modeller.

My Silouhette Portrait is on the way and I'm pretty excited about the opportunities for custom markings, canopy masks and other modelling purposes. 

I hope to be able to contribute to the library very soon 🙂

Thanks for having me!