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So many questions !

Featured Replies

Dear forum members, I am a complete newbie in cutting plotters.

I have thousands of questions about this, but my first question is, what is the best foil for cutting masks?

I don't know if my question belongs in this section, and maybe it's a stupid question. I did a test with the mask's material from AK and am not very satisfied with the result, but it could also be due to the setting of my machine (Silhouette 5 alpha).

What can you recommend to me, I only have a week of experience!!!!!!

Hi Rudy,

You'll find that most people use one of the Oramask vinyls, usually 810 if my memory serves me correctly.

https://www.orafol.com/en/australia/products/oramask-810s-stencil-film

The main issue with this material is that it's not always easy to get hold of in sensible quantities, or even at all sometimes.

Another commonly-used option are the masking sheets from Tamiya, which are made from the same material as their tape. Each material has its own set of pros and cons, so its worth having and experimenting with both if you can. The vinyl cuts more cleanly, is translucent, and comes in larger sizes. The Tamiya material conforms better to compound curves and surface details, and is (in my experience) more readily available.

The machines are designed to handle a wide range of material types, so dialling them in for a specific medium can be tricky.

Kev

Hi Rudy,

It really depends on what you want to do.

For sharp-edged markings like insignia, I use Oramask, since the model surfaces in those areas usually have only slight curvature.

For canopies, I generally use Tamiya masking sheets, as canopies can have complex, pronounced shapes.

For camouflage patterns—because of the soft color transitions (think "floating masks")—I use Mylar stencil film, artist's cardstock, or a pencil to sketch out the patterns beforehand.

As you can see, there are various ways to create masks. But your plotter can cut all these materials—it just depends on what you personally prefer.

Have fun with your modeling! You can't go wrong! 😎

Harry

  • Author

Thank you very much for the good advice, I immediately ordered a roll of Oramask 810, via Amazon .

I keep the Tamiya mask sheets in mind, i think on the first sight they are much the same as the mask sheets from Green Stuff,

and working good for cutting mask's with a knife.

I use Artool Ultra Mask, which is similar to Oramask, but some say a little less tacky. It is available on a roll or in packs of A4 sheets. I've also tried the Tamiya sheets. Plus points: The Tamiya sheets work, and have a printed grid to aid alignment. The downside is that it is not particularly transparent, which in some circumstances can make placing and alignment more difficult.

Thumbs up here for Oramask 810, fits the bill perfectly but I’d highly recommend Cricut transfer sheets for aligning the masks accurately. The “Tamiya” tape sheets are very expensive in comparison to Oramask and I find less forgiving to cut, but that could just be me.

When using Oramask for canopies’ compound curves it’s wise the make some strategically placed side cuts to help the mask to conform more easily, like these Typhoon ones:

BcgixR.png

Max

I'll echo all the good advice that's been mentioned by the more experienced folks

Similar to Timbacat, I generally use oracal 810 for most items like insignia, numbers, etc and tamiya sheets for canopies

there's a fair bit of technique to learn, this site is a great resource for getting started...and it's a wonderful thing when you peel that mask off leaving a great looking insignia

  • Author

Thank you all for the advice, it's great !!!!!

On 7/16/2026 at 9:43 PM, Mozart said:

... I’d highly recommend Cricut transfer sheets for aligning the masks accurately. The “Tamiya” tape sheets are very expensive in comparison to Oramask and I find less forgiving to cut, but that could just be me.

Max

Seconded on the Cricut transfer tape.

Re the Tamiya sheets: I must confess I saw the pack I've got on sale, and bought said pack out of curiosity to try it. It's OK, as I said above, but perhaps is more expensive than other materials: I've not done the maths, I confess.

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