July 11Jul 11 HiI tried my first mask today on a practice piece. Far from a disaster but the registartion is 'out' because I found it difficult to line up the mask when returning the central parts to the cross. I was using clear vinyl as a transfer medium but its not that clear, pretty grainy which made things difficult. The bleeding I can handle as I would normally seal edges with a clear varnish but didnt bother for a practice run.I used portrait 4, oramask 810.[url=https://postimg.cc/XrrVTBHW][img]https://i.postimg.cc/QdbHKpcF/IMG-5120.jpg[/img][/url]Many thanks in advance :) Edited July 11Jul 11 by Kevin Futter Fixed image link
July 11Jul 11 I've fixed the image link for you, Mark. You just need the direct image link (the one that ends with ".jpg" or similar), rather than any of the bbCode (the stuff in the square brackets).Mask alignment and registration is something I struggle with myself, and am still trying to get better at, so I feel your pain!Kev
July 13Jul 13 Firstly Mark (oh, and welcome!) what transfer medium are you using? Some are better than others, I always use the Cricut stuff, it’s so much better than Frisket for instance.Doing the Balkenkreuze, my method is always to firstly put an “empty” mask in place. Sometimes I prepare one specifically when I am designing the mask sheet, or I carefully lift the parts out of the actual mask using the transfer sheet.Then spray the empty mask area with white.When that is dry, carefully replace the mask elements which are still on the Cricut transfer sheet, so effectively the whole mask is back together as one.Finally, weed out the black area masks and spray.Remove the remaining masks when dry.Hope this makes sense and helps! Unfortunately I don’t have any sequence shots of doing a Luftwaffe mask, but this recent Typhoon roundel illustrates the principle, especially steps 1 and 2:Max Edited July 13Jul 13 by Mozart
July 13Jul 13 Author On 7/11/2025 at 11:02 PM, Kevin Futter said:I've fixed the image link for you, Mark. You just need the direct image link (the one that ends with ".jpg" or similar), rather than any of the bbCode (the stuff in the square brackets).Mask alignment and registration is something I struggle with myself, and am still trying to get better at, so I feel your pain!KevThank you Kevin
July 13Jul 13 Author @MozartMany thanks for your comprehensive reply.I have been using the same techniques as you but was and still am struggling to return the mask perfectly to its ‘empty’ mask. When I spray the white the contrast on the edges reduces.I bought some cricut transfer tape and it’s much better than the one I was using and it’s made it easier. Hardest part is removing it from its paper backing!More practice needed and whilst the second one below isn’t in perfect registration I’m happy with it! Edited July 13Jul 13 by Mark B
July 14Jul 14 Author Well thanks again! One last thing if I may which paints do you use for the roundels?
July 15Jul 15 On 7/13/2025 at 3:42 PM, Mark B said:Hardest part is removing [Cricut Transfer Tape] from its paper backing!Tack a small piece of tape (like Scotch or Tamiya) on a top corner of the tape and peel back from the backing material. For higher tack tape, also place tape on the bottom corner to pull apart. to the degree wanted. I fold back a corner of the backing material to facilitate positioning the tape before removing the remainder of the backing.Great response, as always, @Mozart .Gene K Edited July 15Jul 15 by GeneK
July 15Jul 15 To make placing the Transfer Tape/Mask more accurate, peel it from its backing and place (roll) it onto see-through wax paper. Fold back a corner of the wax paper to expose some sticky tapa and maneuver the assembly into position. Then press down the exposed edge of the tape/mask, and carefully peel off the wax paper backing as you lay the Tape/Mask into position. Peel off the Transfer Tape and voila.Gene K
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