GeneK

I'm late coming to this thread -- glad you found a solution after so much frustration.

SO just for info: I have had nearly all models of the Silhouette cutters up to 4, and had great cuts ... until the 4. Problem with that machine was the same as yours. Sent the first one back, and the replacement had the same issue. In frustration I ordered an inexpensive Portrait 4 ... and was (and am) pleased as punch. All to say I wouldn't discount that your machine may have hardware tracking problems, including distortions depending on where on the page the cut is. As @Timbacat pointed out - lots of things churning inside the machine to make "simple" cuts as circles.

Gene K

Has 1/72 Seamless Intake SVG

Has 1/72 Seamless SVG for use in non-Silhouette cutters or Manual Tracing

View File

Seamless Intakes for Hasegawa 1/72 F-4 Phantoms

To remedy the 1/72 Hasegawa Phantom intake challenge. File is for cutting .010 plastic using Silhouette Studio. Draft Instructional video on Youtube. Seamless Intakes for Hasegawa 1/72 F-4 Phantom.

SVG file posted separately for non-silhouette machines or manual cutting.

The circles are to make blanking engine faces at the end of the intakes if a resin/3D/plastic face is not available.

Gene K

View File

West,

What software are you using to scan, and in what format is the scanned file?

Gene K

On 10/23/2025 at 1:08 AM, cpoud117 said:

On 10/23/2025 at 1:08 AM, cpoud117 said:

@GeneK have you ever gotten around to tracing masks for the TF-104?

I'm building the Revell TF-104G ... .

I did masks for the Hasegawa TF, but can't find the files ... but at any rate, those wouldn't fit the Revell kit.

When the F-104 bug bites again, I'll do another set. Unfortunately the Hasegawa TF kit is hard to find these days.

As an aside, Jared also has some great F-104 3D files here.

Gene K

Looks pretty good so far. The Studio Trace function is good, but if you learn point editing, you can then refine/simplify Studio traces ... and ultimately do manual tracing (which some of us consider more precise than Studio tracing).

Looks like you used a font that does not match the decal. In that regard, there are many cut-ready Studio files for fonts and insignia available on this site as well as on the Net -- for example, here is USAF Amarillo font.

So ... there are many good Studio tutorials on the web (esp YouTube), but you could start on this site in the Tutorials section. Well worth a visit as you climb up the Studio Learning Curve.

Gene K

Here's the link to the current bargain priced Portrait 4 -- still $129 including shipping.

I've owned the range of SIlhouette machines, and the Portrait 4 does all I need as concerns my scale model hobbies. Only wish it had more cutting force since I use it to cut thin plastic ... up to .015", but takes multiple passes.

Gene K.

Belly Strap for 1/72 FineMolds F-4 E/G/S Kits

For the new FineMolds 1/72 F-4E late ... and F-4G and S if released.

Silhouette file is color coded, so chose colors to be cut (with/without rivets).

I use .005" plastic with settings: force 33, passes 1, and depth 6.

My choice of adhesive is Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Set used very sparingly. Tack center, then position and tack end of each leg.

I will post svg file for use in other brand cutters or for manual tracing.

Gene K

View File

Thanks, Harry. Interesting site.

Gene K

Very "fancy" scheme ... almost gaudy.

https://www.deviantart.com/sr71abcd/art/Hawker-Hunter-Mrs-D-263953951

There's a great 1/32 build on LSP where the builder made star masks - you could contact him and ask him if he'd share the patterns. Considering for whom you are making the model, I would think he'd be proud to contribute.

BTW, he mentions that the small stars tested the limits of his cutter - will be very challenging at 1/48!

Large Scale Planes

Failing that, here's a paper model that could ease some of the mask designing:

1/48-Hawker Hunter Mk.58A, UK registry G-PSST, "Miss Demeanor" - Paper Model - EcardModels

Good luck!

Gene K

Kev,

Use MS Edge browser, and when coming across ANY foreign language, merely right click and press Translate to English. Some other browsers have a similar capability, but Edge has been the best for me in terms of translation accuracy and maintaining the translation between web pages/posts.

Gene K

To make placing the Transfer Tape/Mask more accurate, peel it from its backing and place (roll) it onto see-through wax paper. Fold back a corner of the wax paper to expose some sticky tapa and maneuver the assembly into position. Then press down the exposed edge of the tape/mask, and carefully peel off the wax paper backing as you lay the Tape/Mask into position. Peel off the Transfer Tape and voila.

Gene K

On 7/13/2025 at 3:42 PM, Mark B said:

Hardest part is removing [Cricut Transfer Tape] from its paper backing!

Tack a small piece of tape (like Scotch or Tamiya) on a top corner of the tape and peel back from the backing material. For higher tack tape, also place tape on the bottom corner to pull apart. to the degree wanted. I fold back a corner of the backing material to facilitate positioning the tape before removing the remainder of the backing.

Great response, as always, @Mozart .

Gene K

Line Segment Overcut is very useful, but be careful that you do not inadvertently clip off very small parts in tight places.

Gene K

Thanks. Nicely done.

Gene K

How did it finally go last year, Paolo?

Gene K

Is there a template "key" that shows what goes where (I don't have a 1/32 kit -- is your mask based on Hasegawa, Revell, Trumpeter, or ... ?. I can get instructions from Scalemates). Would downsize to 1/48 and 1/72.

Thanks,

Gene K

How is your 3D printing going, Frederick?

Gene K

Beautiful work! Thanks.

Gene K

Worked beautifully - thanks Craig.

Gene K

I order my Oramask from here in the US:

https://craftcuttersupply.com/products/oramask-810-stencil-vinyl?variant=8220444131373

There are many options (sheets, rolls, sizes) at good prices, and they ship to Canada. In the past there was a discussion on another site about 810 losing stick and shrinking after a long time in storage, so the recommendation was to order in small batches. I personally haven't had a problem storing a roll inside the house for several years.

Gene K

On 8/18/2024 at 4:26 AM, BlackMike Models said:

I simply can't make sense of how to convert the 1:1 size into any given scale even though I know it must be a simple process.

I'm sure Mike will give you the best "tutorial", but for others who may have the same quandary (or who are looking for shortcuts):

1. Convert 1:1 measurements into your desired units, for example inches or mm.  https://www.calculator.net/conversion-calculator.html

2. Divide by your desired scale, for example 72 or 48. 

3. If you change your mind on the scale, you can start again, or https://www.scalemodelersworld.com/online-scale-converter-tool.html

Gene K

Thanks. Nice job on the masks ... and on the model!!

Gene K

Thanks DBB. Although I don't have the subject kit, I appreciate looking at other's fine work. Thanks.

For what it's worth  --  as concerns removing supports, I just upgraded to the Mars 5 Ultra, and using it with Anycubic ABS-Like (Pro 2 ) resin , I've had an "astounding" (by my previous experience) zero print failures. That resin has a flexibility that is most forgiving when removing supports, which on delicate items I remove after curing. Using fine supports on pieces like 1/72 boarding ladders, lets me easily remove the supports with just a little finger pressure.  Nub cleanup is minimal.

I like  Lychee Pro to arrange supports since it's easy to mix medium with fine supports on delicate parts.  

Gene K