Mozart

Hello Gary, and welcome. The Silhouette sticky mats are super (read “over”) sticky to begin with but some of it will soon wear off so that it’s manageable. You could try de-tacking it to a degree by just placing your hands on it a few times, or a sheet of paper then easing it off carefully. It’s a pain but something you just have to work through I’m afraid. Max

As Kev says, hosting pictures is a learned art which puzzles many, but easy enough once you get into a routine. I use ImageShack, never had any difficulty with it.

Busy man then Jose, working in ATC! Welcome to masking madness.😀 Max

Glad you have joined us Dainis, welcome and hopefully you’ll find lots of useful stuff here. Are you on LSP too, it’s a good place to be! Max

Welcome Tudor, we have several Cricut users here so I hope you find benefit from the site. Max

Good to see you here Jonners, I hope you find lots of useful stuff here but anything further you need to know, just ask. Can’t guarantee an answer but we’ll try! Max

Canopies with straight edges are simple, less so those that are curved. For those I think there is no other way than Kev’s method; use Tamiya tape over the canopy, draw edges with a sharp pencil then apply to a flat surface. I usually then scan this, import it into Studio and trace. Then it’s a matter of trial fit, adjust, trial fit ad infinitum till accurate.

Welcome Gerson! There’s lots to learn here but if you have any other questions, ask away and we’ll do our best to answer them. Cheers Max

Great result Joe/Phil! The arc tool is quite tricky to use in Studio, I always do curves the way that you have discovered using the “bendy” line tool in the largest screen size possible. Any misplaced points can be corrected and brought into alignment very easily. On a canopy like yours, once I have got one corner curve accurately drawn, I copy multiple times, then go to “Object” on the top bar, and flip each corner horizontally or vertically to suit its position. Saves a lot of drawing time and aids consistency.

Good job Joe! 👍

Same principle as Mike, but I work from the outside in! Horses for courses. Max

Yep, I always use 810, I believe it’s not so easy to get hold of in the States.

Have a look here. I have illustrated and described my routine which hopefully will answer your question, these are the most challenging ones to do accurately. Hope it helps Joe. Recently sprayed underwing roundels using the same method: Max

R8884 canopy.studio3 R8884 canopy.studio3 Masks for an early car door Hawker Typhoon File Information Submitter Mozart Submitted 01/23/2026 Category Canopy Masks View File

JP843 canopy.studio3 JP843 canopy.studio3 Masks for a late car door Hawker Typhoon File Information Submitter Mozart Submitted 01/23/2026 Category Canopy Masks View File

I have uploaded camouflage masks in 1/32 scale for the Hawker Typhoon, specifically in my case for the Airscale one but they will obviously apply to the Revell or MDC ones. When used they will need a little extra masking in some areas, on the top of the nose for instance where the port and starboard masks (deliberately) don't meet in the middle. Some built-in user flexibility is always a good idea in my book. Used in conjunction with the Typhoon markings masks uploaded late last year, most Tiffy builders should be good to go. Canopy masks have also been added, they are both for car-door types, one early and one late. Max

Airscale Typhoon fuse port.studio3 Airscale Typhoon fuse port.studio3 File Information Submitter Mozart Submitted 01/23/2026 Category Camouflage Patterns View File

Airscale Typhoon camo wings.studio3 Airscale Typhoon camo wings.studio3 File Information Submitter Mozart Submitted 01/23/2026 Category Camouflage Patterns View File

Thanks Kev, the Typhoon kit is such a pleasure to build. I was afraid that it would be somewhat intimidating with all of Peter’s detail to work with, but it’s so well engineered that it’s quite straightforward.

Undercarriage bay, very detailed:

This is a summary of a build that is going on over on LSP. The kit, produced by Peter Castle of Airscale fame is a mixture of very finely and detailed 3D parts and injection moulded parts, the latter comprising the fuselage, wings, horizontal tailplanes and canopy. At the time of writing, the kit is not yet available, this is an early test kit only. I have produced masks for the two marking options in this kit, R8884 of 183 Squadron and JP843 of 197 Squadron. They are available to download here and here The cockpit "time lapse": Painted, assembled and decalled: Seat belts added and temporarily in place in the fuselage: More later! Max