Here's how I create masks with my Silhouette Cameo for my example of W.Nr for 1/32 German aircraft.
Of course, it also works for letters.
I noticed that the masks featuring numbers with an inner recess (0, 4, 6, 8 and 9) were torn.

The cause was that the Cameo's blade passed too close (the numbers are really very small) to both the outer contour and to cut the recesses. 
To solve this problem, here's what I do:

1-I select the "text" function in the left-hand column and on the right I choose the font and also the size of the text so that it's as large as possible while still fitting entirely within the Studio window :

2-I duplicate my text and position it below :

3-Use the "eraser" tool to remove all inner recesses from the top text :

4-And on the bottom text, I do the opposite and remove all the text outlines, leaving only the recesses :

5-I select the set, group it together and then cut it to the right size for my model :

6-For my FW 190 the W.Nr will have a size of 10.18mm :

7-I cut out the assembly, place the main mask on my model, carefully detach the 3 recesses and place them gently and precisely in position, apply a light coat of black paint with the airbrush and you're done :

That's all folks! For today that is.

I hope this little tutorial has been of interest to you.
See you soon for new adventures with the Cameo!

Denis.

The airbrush manufacturer Harder & Steenbeck (https://www.youtube.com/@harderairbrush) has published various videos on YouTube about airbrush cleaning and using the new 2024 airbrush.

Since I've tried out these various tips and tricks myself, I can tell you that what Warwick from Harder & Steenbeck shows and tells you makes sense.

Absolutely informative!!!!

This makes airbrushing fun again! 😀

Harry

Auf Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwgDcFc5vmY

Have fun!

Harry

https://3dcuts.com/silhouette-line-segment-overcut-tutorial

Thanks for Leon over at LSP for posting the link!

Kev

Great for beginners since he covers all the basics .... plus some.

There are "alternate" ways to do many tasks in Studio other than as shown in this series (of course). For example, instead of Copy and then Paste, merely click on object, then press Alt key to drag a copy to a new location. That feature is particularly handy to place and cut a new copy of an object close to the original -- saves material. 

Gene K

F6F-3 Hellcat [Trumpeter] - Works in Progress - Large Scale Planes

The 00 masks were made using the typeface USN Stencil, AmarilloUSAF, or USAF Code. The reference photos seemed to be closer to AmarilloUSAF and sized appropriately.

The stripe on the tail was Tamiya tape. And of course, the national markings were masks created in Silhouette Studio. I also created canopy masks. There aren't any decals on the hellcat model.

I used AutoCAD to create these masks, exported a dxf file which was imported with Silhouette Studio. I'm familiar with AutoCAD and have an older copy that is installed on my notebook computer from before I retired. I've been slowly trying to work out how to create these types of things in Studio. I figure that at some point the notebook computer will die or at some point AutoCAD will stop working. Or I'll have to find other software to create the masks.

So anyway, the first picture is what I cut for the national markings.

I then sprayed white and black paint for the markings. There is a set of 00 under the horizontal tail surfaces that is black.

I then installed the mask pieces for the base colors using frisket paper to hold the pieces together while I placed them.

Then of course, came the blue paint.

I placed the mask to protect the blue and sprayed white paint over the blue in the areas where the red paint would be.

And painted the red.

Then the overall mask piece to protect the markings.

And of course, after all the painting was done and masks removed.

I preferred to start with the white to limit the paint thickness.

Dave

since it was flown by my father in 1943 during his pilot training is S Rhodesia.  It presents a few problems for masking, most notably the chequerboard band on the rear fuselage (just visible behind the strut) and the large, rather unorthodox "35" on the fuselage.

To do the chequered band I wrapped some thin masking tape around the fuselage having decided that a scale 4mm was about right for each square, and there are three columns.  So the forward and rear masking tapes were 12mm apart.  The taper on the fuselage is the tricky bit because clearly the "circumference" is going to vary.  Once I'd got the positions right, I took the masking tape off and laid it on my cutting mat 12mm apart along its length.  I took a picture of it:

then imported the picture into the Silhouette software.  This gave me the wrap around shape fairly accurately.  Then I set my grid background to aid drawing to 4mm and carefully drew things out:

then cut:

It needed a bit of tidying up but it's ok!

Next the "35"!  This proved just as challenging.  I used the photograph, enlarged as much as possible, again imported into Silhouette then drew some guidelines:

which when the picture was taken away was something like this, though I've added the curves (drawing arcs is another ball game).  Here I've selected the top half of the "3" to group all the bits, then copied, flipped and pasted below to form the whole number (and also the lower part of the "5":

I always work with the drawing as large as possible to ensure accuracy with lines joining up.  If you don't you'll have uncut gaps which will cause problems when you come to use the masks.

The end result:

Any questions or comments welcome!

Max

I have read the instruction manual but it seems to be lacking the information I'm looking for.  That or I just don't know what I need or can't find what I want.  Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks!

"You just do this and that, I am too lazy to explain the 4000 houres of cursing, blood-curdling frustration and screaming at the screen, or I just enjoy knowing that someone else is having to go through all that before they can even draw a simple shape"

I know; read the effing manual!

But that manual is not very well structured when it comes to teaching anyone who is a total newbee in the art of image creation/editing. It talks breafly about all sorts of features etc. It is NOT very helpful with exercises to get you into it gradually. For a total newbee it seems like it talks about the features like you've already outgrown Adobe ilustrator.

I feel that if I am lucky I get to use the same command twice with the same outcome.

How do I change the language of the effing software so that what I am seeing on my screen is litterarily the same as what some english-speaking fellow trying to help me is seeing on his/her screen?

An example; "tracing" in swedish is "kalkera", but does the manual for the software call it that? NO, it does NOT; it calls it "spårning" wich would be an appropriate word if "tracing" was used in the context of tracing a phonecall, not in the context of tracing an image. Why call it "kalkera" in the software itself but "spårning" in the manual? Is the writing of the manual outsourced to someone who does not know the software, the language? Or in the most likely scenario, niether?

Why does all the tutorials I see assume I am a seasoned user of image-editing software, an avid user of CAD/CAM and not someone who am just tired of effing up the decals? How do I import an image to use as a background with any grid added ON TOP OF said image. All I ever gett is an image that seem to be part of the design, sometimes I can move it around in relation to the "work surface" or what ever it is called. Should I just invest in Fusion 360 since that software actually allows me to draw lines and curves on top of an image while not getting confused which is used as just a reference and what is my actual work?

I need someone to point at the screen in front of me to tell me what button to push, that is not going to happen so the next best thing is places like this. But no-one is showing their work, I am every bit like the hard-ass math-teacher in that way. I do not care about your awesome results, show me how you achieved them and do not skip anything (you don't have to account for every breath and heartbeat)

I happened upon one "tutorial" on youtube that "explained" that most all national insignias was awailable on wikipedia as vectored images etc. No mention at all what other steps was involved to get a cut piece of tape to apply to the substrate!

Imagine this; the USAF puts a pilot through some training in the T-38, just to check that they can fly something a littel faster without killing themselves. After that they'd hand them a booklet describing the features of the F-16, not on how and when to use them mind you. Would you expect a pilot with that kind of traing to be useful for anything more than target-practice for the F-15 and SAM community ?

It is sort of the same with this; you somehow managed to register your machine on-line, now you are assume to be an expert user that have NOTHING to learn from anyone.

In closing of this rant, if anyone have actually come to read this far into it; What I am looking for is tutorials for people that can barely scan a picture to have as a file on the computer. A tutorial that takes any idiot, myself especially from the point of being that computer-illitirate to having a paintmask ready to apply.

I know the Skyraider was sketched on a cocktail-napking, that was harldy the only thing the factoryworkers had to go on when they built the thinga. Why is it that all we have for tutorials are "cocktail-napkings"

Hope you find it useful 😉

Firstly I prepared an "empty" mask, a negative one if you like just to get its position right and to spray the background white areas ready for the roundel and the chequerboard:

Then I took my transfer piece and placed it over the mask, carefully lifting it from its backing sheet onto the transfer piece.  This is fiddly and needs care:

The transfer piece/mask was placed over the "negative one", making sure all lined up as well as possible.  Clear Frisket film makes this slightly easier but in this case I found the 6mm squares didn't stick well enough to the Frisket so moved out of alignment.  Once in position the roundel centre mask and squares to be sprayed red were removed:

When dry, the roundel centre mask was replaced using the register marks for accuracy.  The mask for the white middle ring doesn't need to be touched.  The outer ring mask is removed, this is the blue area.  The chequerboards can simply be covered up with tape, no need to replace the squares individually.

Then the blue is sprayed:

When dry, all masks removed for the final reveal!  I've never yet done chequerboards that don't need a bit of touching up:

Hope this helps a little.

Max

There are circumstances where masking the surface of your model is simply not going to work as I discovered during my SBD build HERE. So, keep this idea in you bag of tricks for future reference. You will need a quality clear decal film like the one available from Microscale and LACQUER paints.

Assuming you have your Oramask 810 masks ready get started by painting your decals. Make extras!

Carefully sliced through the clear film only leaving a small area to grip with my clamping tweezers. Do not cut the decal paper close because as you pull the paper out from under the decal you need the paper wide enough to support the width of the decal. Kinda like the slow motion version of getting a pizza off the spatula, or whatever it’s called. The decal is so thin that if you don’t support it, it will fold under itself and you’ll drive yourself insane trying to fix it. Make extras!

Wet the decal from the bottom side so as not to dilute the adhesive, and removed the excess film with tweezers, but the part being clamped remains. The discarded film is that shiny thing to the top and right of the picture below.

First some generous drops of Micro Set then carefully keeping the decal paper close to the model’s surface pull the paper out from under the decal. Then use a wide wet brush to work out the wrinkles the and then roll a cotton bud over the decal to work out the excess water and trapped air. You need some moisture under the decal because as the moisture evaporates the decal displaces the moisture. Setting solutions soften the decal to make it more pliable.

Let it sit for a few minutes and airbrush a couple coats of Micro Sol over everything. This is typical of the results I got in all 6 positions. I chose this photo because you can see how well the decal was sucked down around the latch.

So, how thin can a decal be? I defy anyone to tell the difference between a decal made this way and markings painted directly on the model. 

CAVEAT: Unless there is a situation like my SBD I will always paint my markings directly to the model. It's just too gratifying not to.

Hope it helps, it's certainly the best way that I've "found" of doing these tricky symbols.

Max

OVERCUT simply extends the corner cuts beyond the apex and guarantees the corners are sharp and the mask pieces separate completely. 

feel free to corect it i am not a pro 🙂

Https://www.scalemodel.gr/scale.pdf

I scanned the decal sheet that came with the kit and put the image into my photographs folder.  

then dragged the image into the Silhouette drawing area, scaling the image to a convenient size and clicking "send to back" (top tool bar) so that I could draw over it.  I'm doing XS901, so I could trace the X and S and the 9.  I started with the 9.  The centre looked circular to me so I selected the line/circle tool and drew the inner.  I copied this and enlarged it for the outer concentric circle.  I grouped these two together, copied and pasted and moved this below the first circles:

I used the straight line tool for the small horizontal on the 9's "tail" and a couple of verticals on the back of the 9:

Then with the erasure tool I started to get rid of unnecessary bits - take the erasure tool close to the line but not too close at this stage.  When I'd cleaned up most lines I went to an increased zoom for the detailed clean up - I moved the verticals slightly to one side then erased the curved line:

then replaced the vertical, adjusting its length slightly if necessary.  Within no time, the 9 was complete:

Click on all line elements whilst holding Cmd+Shift and go to Group items then click for your finished 9.

The S needed a bit more thought and a different procedure because there was no symmetry in any axis.  So on the line select tool I chose the icon that looks like a figure 8 on its side, the curve drawing tool.  Again remember I'm tracing over the decal onscreen.  Click on the start point then click frequently following the outside line, more frequently on tighter curves.  Be as accurate as possible but adjustment is easy later if you're slightly off:

Stop where the curve meets a straight line, this tool will not go round sharp corners!  

Add the horizontals, if you go wrong at any point just go to the edit tool on the top tool bar and click on the undo button:

If you want to fine tune your lines double click on the line and you'll then be able to move each point as much or little as you want to produce that smooth line.  If you're working as I do to an enlarged screen any small variations will disappear as you reduce scale/size.

Again finish by grouping all the elements and saving.

For the X I traced one half of it.  When drawing straight lines when you come to a corner do a  quick double click to continue drawing in an "uninterrupted" way with a double click when you end.  I grouped these lines:

copied and pasted:

then went to Object on the top tool bar, selected Mirror horizontally from the drop down menu:

then moved the two halves together and grouped:

The number "1" was very straightforward!

The 0 could be done in different ways; clicking around its perimeter as with the S or drawing as with the 9.  I copied the 9, ungrouped all the line elements then copied the longer vertical on the back, pasting this on the front side of the shape:

Then with the erase tool I took out all unnecessary elements as before, re-grouped all and saved.  I then assembled "XS901" together, grouped all and scaled to the correct size.  The underwing serial was complete, from a further copy I scaled to the fuselage size, job done!

The stencil was cut using Oramask 810 with a blade setting of 2, force 4, speed 5, 1 pass.

Hope this has been useful to those of you new to cutters.

Max

....saved the scan to my photo album then dragged the image onto the Silhouette screen:

the drawing again being scaled to a workable size.  Then the fin was traced, the only slightly tricky bit (not really!) was the curve.  When you click on the drawing tool icon, one of the options given is to draw a curve.  Select this, click your mouse at the starting point then makes series of clicks following the curve till the end point.  "Sign off" with a double click, then group with all the other elements.

When you've finished the design and saved it, click the "SEND" button, top right and a drop down menu gives you a choice of materials - on my machine plastic card isn't one of them!  So you have to tailor the cutting speed, the number of passes and the force.  The maximum force is 33, I chose this, 10 passes and speed 5.  

The standard blade will cut 10 thou card but for anything thicker you need a heavy duty blade, I set it by eye so that a reasonable amount of blade was showing!  Not very scientific I admit.  When you load the cut mat and plastic sheet, the latter tends to move about because of the force and reduced "stickiness" of smooth plastic, so I just hold it lightly in place whilst cutting.  The blade won't cut all the way through the plastic, but scores deeply enough that with a little bending the fin pops out.

Then a sand, clean up and hey presto......! 😁

Wonderful machines these Silhouette cutters!

Being familiar with these few keys gives you the ability to be able to draw shapes quickly and accurately and to make the best use of the design software. I am by no means whatsoever claiming to be an expert with these things, more a functional user using what I have found works for me and if I can pass on a few of these tips then I’ll be happy! I love the challenge of having a new set of masks to draw then planning how to go about it. I spent an hour or so yesterday drawing some masks for my Lightning so I’ll add to this thread a little later with some pointers about how I did them.

Watch this space......😀

Max